Bolting down cockpit sole

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  • August 14, 2013 8:18 AM
    Reply # 1365016 on 1359145
    Deleted user

    The WS 32 Chakra sp? had a set of concentric hinges with a ram to open the cockpit floor which was really ingenious.  I wish I still had some photos.

    Mike you make some good points that should be considered.  I like Jack's method because it's fast and can be made water tight. Being water tight is our main concern.  Our boat came with the fourteen bolts and since we only access through the floor when we need to be in there for an extended time we've lived with. If we need to do something quick like the strainer or fuel filter It's faster to go through the front door.  We have a one piece ladder and a hinged door that allows instant access.  We prefer accessing the engine compartment through the door at sea, it eliminates the chance of water getting to the motor as if the floor were open.  My wife routinely checks the motor through the door when we motor for any amount of tine.

    Jim

    Photo Photo  Photo
  • August 14, 2013 8:29 AM
    Reply # 1365023 on 1359145
    Deleted user
    Mike,
    I can't visualze your piano hinge install.
    Are there pictures somewhere?
    Thanks
  • August 15, 2013 5:59 AM
    Reply # 1365835 on 1365023
    Carl Schaefer wrote:Mike,
    I can't visualze your piano hinge install.
    Are there pictures somewhere?
    Thanks


    Carl,

    I don't think I have any pics nor do I have a camera anymore but I'll look (I've never been able to post pics here anyway).

    It's simple.  It's just a 'heavy duty' 34" long SS piano hinge running down the starboard side/edge between the corner 'notches' in the hatch.  One half of the hinge is bolted to the hatch and the other half is bolted to the vertical wall of the cockpit well.  Think of it as a horizontal door.

    The only problem I've heard people mention they might have with such an installation is the hatch might not clear their engine instrument panel as it's swung open, i.e their instrument panel projects too far out into the cockpit.  Mine happens to be recessed into the well with only a small bezel that barely protrudes into the well.

    Edit: I found some old pics when I was replacing the teak strips on the hatch. Note it is before the latches were installed on the opposite side.  Hopefully this link will work

    The large dark 'square' in the upper left corner is a Sunbrella cover over the instrument panel (with a 'ripple' in the canvas). Note the line laying on the hatch in the lower left corner. This is the 'lanyard' I use to swing the floor up. It is just the right length with a loop on the end to loop the lanyard over the jib sheet cleat to keep the hatch open.  The throttle clears easily due to the arc of the swing.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/boomer2610/boat/hatch2.jpg
    Last modified: August 15, 2013 7:54 AM | Anonymous member
  • August 15, 2013 7:27 AM
    Reply # 1365883 on 1365016
    Jim Focha wrote:


    Mike you make some good points that should be considered.  I like Jack's method because it's fast and can be made water tight. Being water tight is our main concern.  Our boat came with the fourteen bolts and since we only access through the floor when we need to be in there for an extended time we've lived with. If we need to do something quick like the strainer or fuel filter It's faster to go through the front door.  We have a one piece ladder and a hinged door that allows instant access.  We prefer accessing the engine compartment through the door at sea, it eliminates the chance of water getting to the motor as if the floor were open.  My wife routinely checks the motor through the door when we motor for any amount of tine.

    Jim

    re: being watertight. I keep thinking I should seal the periphery of the hatch with some foam tape or something but I've taken on a tubfull of green water and while I'm sure some leaked in it drained so quickly I just don't think it's that big a problem.

    I cannot take credit for the simplicity of my arrangement. It was already in place when I bought the boat. It seemed like such an obvious approach and access is just so convenient I never would have thought securing the cockpit floor would be such a conundrum for people.

    Especially since (unlike you) I have the 'Chinese puzzle' companionway steps it's just so much quicker & easier to get to the engine compartment from the top anyway. I have studiously avoided adding anything to the area right behind the engine/transmission such that I always can just drop down into the compartment, have a seat and still have 'elbow room' to do whatever I need quickly & easily.

    Otherwise, I do have a little access hatch right below the 1st companionway step that pops out that allows me to check the 'screw room' & switch fuel tanks while underway.  So pretty much the only time I need to fully open up the front/companionway is to adjust/replace the belts, change oil, raw water impeller, etc..
  • August 15, 2013 7:46 AM
    Reply # 1365898 on 1362252
    Carl Schaefer wrote:Jack,
    my new Trojans are sitting 2 on each side.
    You gave me the ideas I was looking for.
    I will be doing the same.
    Thanks so much.



    Not intending to hijack the thread but you might be interested in this:

    https://www.flow-rite.com/product/rv-2000


    I have 4 T-105's, two on each side forward of the fuel tanks. Maintaining them was just enough of a PITA that I was constantly being negligent (as we all know, esp the port forward one).  When I had to buy replacements (@ $800!) I decided to install the flow-rite system which allows me to top off the batteries without ever touching them.

    Not cheap (4 batts require 2 kits plus the hand pump for a total of approx $150) but I think it will pay for itself in the long run due to not keeping them properly maintained as often as necessary.  The only downside is it's now SO easy to top off all the batteries I find myself thinking I'll just do it tomorrow :)

    Last modified: August 15, 2013 5:16 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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