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  • January 13, 2013 6:57 PM
    Message # 1179061
    Deleted user
    Wanted to break the ice and introduce myself. My name is Peter and I have just had the honor of buying the westsail 32 Endurance in the southeast. She is a mighty boat having (nearly) circumnavigated by Bob Packer in the 80's, with the dubious distinction of having two 360's to her name. I plan on renaming her Onapua, refitting her over the next year and sailing her to NZ if I get that far. She has only three 20 year old sails on board so if you have any ones you want me to take off your hands, give me a shout. I am planning to ditch the roller furling and just have hank on fore sails. I have been educating myself, following rode trip and sundowner so have also also started a blog at on the internet. One thing I would appreciate advice on is the nearly 40 year old teak depth sounder. I can't believe that thing has lasted this long. Do most owners ditch it, or resuscitate it? Thanks in advance. Peter
    Last modified: January 13, 2013 8:00 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • January 13, 2013 8:32 PM
    Reply # 1179111 on 1179061
    Anonymous member (Administrator)


    Congrats on your Westsail 32 - try to NOT add to the 360 deg count! and welcome aboard.  Here are a few of my ideas...

    Some folks like these strainers and other find that little things grow inside then become large and clog them up!!

    The sea cock below is very common on Westsail's.  If you are out of the water they should come apart by loosening/removing the 2 bolts on the opposite side and removing the bracket.  Then gently tighten the Tee handle to attempt to push the rubber cone out of the houseing.  Assuming the rubber is in good shape and still attached to the handle - lube (seems I used a water proof grease) and reinstall.  Then repeat on all the sea cock's...

    If you are in the water you could plug it from the outside but it's safer out of the water for sure.

    This looks like the mount for an early depth sounder.  This was the first thing I removed on the first haul out!... New depth sounders don't need a hole through the hull as they can be mounted inside the hull.

    If I recall correctly, the actual hole is about 1" in diameter.

    Hope this helps.


  • January 14, 2013 5:37 PM
    Reply # 1179966 on 1179061
    Deleted user
    Thanks so much Jay. Trust me, I have had the fear of god instilled into me in my earlier crazy sailing days, so there will be no more 360's or otherwise on this boat. This cruise will be the epitome of sedate, gentlemanly sailing. For the Grocos, I am hoping to find some plastic seacocks to screw onto the existing bronze thru-hulls which look at first sight to be sound. The pear shaped teak depth sounder actually goes all the way through the hull. It sticks out about 2 inches inside and is black as the ace of spades with mold. I will happily fill in the hole with epoxy along with any others that I can do without. The fewer, the better. I have also been in touch with Bud about replacing my rigging. Cheers mate!
  • January 15, 2013 6:13 AM
    Reply # 1180258 on 1179061

    Peter, welcome.  We have a WS42, but the same Groco seacocks were used as you have in your WS32.  I spent the past summer replacing all of my seacocks and through-hulls.  While I found the through-hulls to be somewhat sound (circa 1976), the seacocks were not salvagable.

    I removed all the through-hulls and seacocks and replaced them with new Groco bronze seacocks.  Some of the old seacocks were able to unscrew once I got the through-hull to move.  However, I did have to cut the through hull out on most of them because the bedding compound was doing such a great job.

    The cutting the through-hull "out" did not involve cutting the hull.  I simply used a dremel tool to cut through the external mushroom head in a quandrant pattern.  It was then a simple process of prying the pieces of bronze off.  The 1976 bronze was soft enough to break with a small amount of prying so as to not damage the hull.  The seacocks were easy to remove after that.

    My word of caution relates to reusing the existing through-hulls.  I would recommend you inspect them thoroughly.  I did find mine looked great, but seemed to be more malleable than was healthy.  I am also a fan of bronze seacocks, but marelon products are very well made.

    What seemed at first to be a horrendous process was actually more straight forward and shall I say easier than I expected.  With the exception of one 11/2 inch seacock that had an attitude problem, the removal took about 2 days or a weekend.

    I also had a depth sounder that protruded from the hull on one side and a knotmeter on the other.  After wrangling between (1) using GPS for speed and an in-hull depth sounder to eliminate holes in the hull or (2) depth and speed tranducers with holes in the hull, I decided to install a triducer (depth, speed, and temp,etc).  Well, one less hole, but I will be able to guage current flow with the knotmeter.  However, I still like the no holes option with the in-hull depth sounder:  smoother hull and no holes!

    Congratulations on your "new" vessel!  The WOA and Bud, especially, are great resources who make Westsail ownership special.


  • January 15, 2013 3:47 PM
    Reply # 1180786 on 1179061
    Deleted user
    I may be wrong but I was under the impression that mixing bronze and plastic together are a no- no?  
  • January 15, 2013 4:46 PM
    Reply # 1180825 on 1179061
    Deleted user
    Plastic and bronze get along fine! = no material issues as the plastic is passive in salt water.

    Plastic and SS get along fine as well 

    SS, plastic and bronze, together not so much. they kind of work like a capacitor +/- . but is somewhat dependent on the configuration+/- and distance apart.

    Bronze and Stainless steel Not so much, If you are interested in finding out more Just look up there Galvanic constants or

      the ones at the bottom eat (corrode) the ones at the top.

    so if Bronze is below the stainless steel (On the chart)  and connected +/- the 316Lss will corrode away while the bronze is protected+/-  + Not good at all.

    Oh this also shows why we all use zinks for corrosion control, it is near the top of the chart = giving up to save all other metals (well not so much so for Al).

    Have a good rust free day.
    Last modified: January 15, 2013 5:07 PM | Deleted user
  • January 15, 2013 6:23 PM
    Reply # 1180861 on 1179061
    Deleted user
    Corrosion was not the problem, I believe it was different expansion rates
  • January 15, 2013 9:46 PM
    Reply # 1180954 on 1179061
    Deleted user
    OK now you need to state the plastic (glass reinforced) Marelon? Nylon? ******etc. etc.

    There are allot of plastics out there and they have different expansion coeff's
    In a valve between 32F and 90F  there is not a big deal, worst case  Ethylene ethyl acrylate - bronze = 0.0001044 in/ in / f   or on a 1.5" valve = 1.5*58*0.000104 or 0.009" it will move that much.
    For the marelon it should be less than 0.0009". 

    So if you are not making long or big items, or working on a telescope, it should not be an issue but an A for thinking about the expansion issue.  It can bit you if you don't watch for it.

    Bedding can take up quite a bit of movement so 0.0009" is nothing  above 0.01" and you need to check for how thick the seal is.   

    For 58 Deg range.  most of us are much smaller  40 to 80 +/-

    Hope no one is going below the 32F : )

    BSP  (thruhulls) are a straight tread, so you do need a sealent +/-  putting a npt to it will kind of work but there is less of a seal and the 0.0009" could be an issues if the threads are not  compressed enough to take up the small expansion needed when cooled to 32 f. from a 90deg summer day install.

    Hope this helps

    P.S I am not recommending using NPT fittings with BSP fittings in any material, as they are not made for each other.  My Grocos are BSP and all of the thruhulls I have purchased are BSP as well. 
    Last modified: January 15, 2013 10:28 PM | Deleted user
  • January 16, 2013 1:34 PM
    Reply # 1181548 on 1179061
    Yes indeed Peter.  Welcome to the WOA.

    As you do the projects to refit your boat, please keep the WOA newsletter WIndblown in mind.  WOA members are very fond of project articles with lots of pictures.  

    When you have something you would like to share, just send it to

  • January 17, 2013 9:45 AM
    Reply # 1182134 on 1179061
    Deleted user

    Dick you probably don't realize it, but I am in awe of you and I am honoured to be getting a message from you. I have read all of your blog posts and have been following you for years. I will take up your suggestion and make some unique project write-ups for windblown. The following in order of priority is my initial list.
    Rigging - check each tang, turnbuckle, toggle, through bolt, clevis pin, and stay for corrosion and replace where necessary (most if not all the clevis pins are badly rusted)
    Replace bowsprit
    Check each thru-hulls in turn and fill with epoxy or replace with marelon
    Base of Bob stay needs removal and re-fitting with epoxy
    Engine overhaul  - replace mounts and stuffing box
    Overhaul rudder  - need new Teflon washers and replace stainless nuts with bronze
    Seal under cap rail with 5200 adhesive and purchase mahogany to replace broken sections
    Bolt stanchions onto bulwark
    Purchase two 6lb Propane tanks for locker and hook to stanchions with regulator and solenoid
    Fit 3 missing Hawse pipes
    Install AM/FM/mp3 radio and Waterproof Speakers for cockpit
    Repair delaminated tiller
     Repair Lazerette latches
    Install solar and LiFePO4 batteries
    Install Ray marine autopilot and purchase spare
    fit new monitor wind-vane
    Search tempest for sails
    Mosquito netting
    Find out how to lock down sole
    Install SSB

    Find out how to repair the stainless boomkin

    By the way I have just found out the crucial importance of having a new camera. I was going through some photos the other night and came upon this one.

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