The chainplates on our 1976 W42 have been coming off this week and despite looking good except for some minor rust on just a few of the bolt heads, there is some crevice corrosion on the backsides where they were in contact with the caprail and sealant.  The corrosion doesn't look that obvious to the naked eye, but under magnification, it is pretty ugly.  The rust staining on the bolts and chainplates wasn't really an issue after all, but the hidden side was a very significant find for us.  The process of getting chainplates off & on is enough to make you want to fix this for a good long time.    

Jesse:

The stainless has not changed, it is the post treatment (passivation or electorpolishing) makes all of the difference.

as others state: You have to check the backs of the plates (If they are clean and crack free they are as good as new) do not replace, but if you have cracks (look very very very close) you need to replace them, if you dip the new ones in nitric acid for an hour then you will have better luck in the long run . (Note: the ones from Bud are Electropolished = to the dipping and much more shinny)

and do try to stay out of the 70kt stuff it can not be that much fun.

Most of the nuts are easy but the top ones can be a pain (could even be glassed over near the bulkhead)

tips

1. Gear wrench is a friend. and worth the $$ for the tight spaces
   
2. You can use grease. or elec. tape on the outside of the nut to wedge it into the box end of a wrench, i.e. to hold it in place while a second person turns the bolt on the outside to get it start when remounting.
3. Drilling out the bolts is allot of work (but once the head is off you could punch them through using a punch or an old bolt you are going to throw away)
4. If you want to keep the rig up, do all 4 lowers, then reinstall and use the running backs when you do the 2 uppers. 
   

It is not much fun, but it is better to inspect than hope.

Hi,

I have been doing a refit of our W42. I changed the chain plates and it is a challenge as stated. Some were accessible through lockers. On the others I removed the teak siding to get at them. The upper bolts were the worst. I used multiple types of wrenches including  gear wrenches. On some nuts, I used tape to hold the nuts in the wrench while others I managed to get my hand up in there. On one chain plate, I had to squeezed through the small locker that is the forward lower and part of the chart table. Very tight spaces !! I got replacement chainplates from Bud. I am as well replacing the bowsprit. The current one has numerous cracks. Welding was attempted, but the welders were endlessly chasing cracks. I regrettably remounted it and now more hair line cracks are showing up with the W42 sitting on the hard. I do not want to take a chance, so I have ordered a new one from Bud.  Next project is the engine. I have a Beta 75 which I will be installing and then leaking fuel / water tanks will be tackled. So lots of ongoing work. Bobstay, stern, and staysail tangs are all new, fabricated locally and from Bud. I also had to replace the bulkhead below the compression post and I-beam. I have taken many photos of the project as I go along. I would be happy to share photos, if that would be of help. Best of luck, George.

Old name- Viking Rose

New name upon recommission - Cadence

Just a FYI

I installed 6 of Buds plates, and as he noted they are all EP'ed; electropolishing is controlled rusting (the free iron is drawn out of the surface in much the way the lead is reduced in your battery).  I am still happy after 8 years

but there are things you should NOT do to them.

1.) lay any kind of tool on them, drill bit, hammer, etc. etc. (believe it or not the tool can soak some chrome off the surface and also can deposit free iron back on to the surface) = the start of a future rust spot or crack.

2.) do not grind any ferrous metal (steel and stainless steel) near the plates again free iron on the surface. That is why they sell bronze wool for cleaning stuff.

3.) try to keep any salts or chlorides (some cleaners) away from the back of the plates (once behind, it does not come out +/-)

a note to Bud:  Be sure they are not buffing the parts after the EP as this can introduce breaks in the High Chrome surface. Polishing - buffing is the same as sanding just at a finer grit and can be enough to pull off the very very thin layer of Chrome rich surface.

and Thanks again Bud for being there for us when we need parts!

George the micro cracks go allot further than you think, if they do weld, have them drill a hole at the end of the crack; weld up the hole, if no further cracking, then they can weld up the crack. In any case welding is a repair when used to fill a crack and should be inspected often, new is often a much better deal in the long run.