Cutlass Bearing

<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >> 
  • February 13, 2013 9:06 AM
    Reply # 1207691 on 1206682
    Something else you could try is clamping the cutlass exposed bit in a vise and then using a piece of wood on the shaft log.... use the wood between a hammer and the shaft log...
  • February 13, 2013 9:15 AM
    Reply # 1207703 on 1206682


    Typically the bronze outer casing is the same length as the rubber insert as you would never have unsupported rubber nor would you press just the rubber portion into the shaft log.  It may be that your inner rubber has expanded past its bronze casing or shifted slightly overtime but it should be minimal, just enough to fool the eye.  I have used this method for bearing and bushing extraction and replacement on a myriad of automotive, motorcycle and marine projects.  My only cautionary notes are;

    1.)    Use the largest diameter threaded rod you can that will still allow for a nut on the inside.  One half inch rod is probably just too small but you could try. Grind the inside nut down if you have to, it is OK if it spins on the rod instead of the outer one when you turn the wrench, it will still draw the bearing out.

    2.)    Use at least two washers on each end, three is better.  One washer by itself will bend.  The inside washers need to fit very close to the inside diameter of the log.  Grind them if you need to so they just fit inside.

    3.)    Grease the rod liberally and avoid a galvanized one if possible as it creates more drag and friction on the nut.

    4.)    Don’t forget to remove the set screws if your shaft log has them.

    5.)    These cutlass bearings have a pretty tight interference fit which is exacerbated by years of corrosion, there is a good chance you will need to heat the shaft log.

    6.) The ‘waterpipe’ in the drawing must have its edges perpendicular to its length.  You cannot hack a pipe off with hand saw or power cut off tool.  I am usually successful getting a premade pipe nipple of the appropriate diameters and length from the plumbing department at Home Depot.   You can take a small square from the tool department over and check some in the bin with it.



  • February 19, 2013 7:49 PM
    Reply # 1212753 on 1206682

    After doing a good number of cutlass bearing replacements, I find that using a hacksaw blade on a simple holder, or better yet a sawzall, and cutting through the bronze shell of the bearing, then peeling it out with a punch and hammer is as good a way to get it out as any.  Don't worry about scoring the inside of the bronze shaft log itself.

    Once the bearing is out, use a spring loaded hone in a drill motor to smooth up the inside of the log.  You can get a spring loaded hone from any auto supply store, as they used to be used to hone brake cylinders, before everyone just replaces everything instead of trying to repair it.  Thay are cheap, about $10 or so.

    Then check the cutlass bearing,  if it will slide into the log, you have it made.  Otherwise, file on the bronze exterior of the bearing until you can slide it in.  Then put it in, and tighten down the set screws.  I also like to leave about 1/2" of cutlass bearing sticking out of the log.  That way the next time, you can use a pipe wrench on the bearing to rotate it and pull it out.

    I have only done a few hundred of these using this approach, but if you have another idea, go ahead with it.


  • February 20, 2013 8:50 AM
    Reply # 1213300 on 1206682
    By the way, the sawzall I was refering to is also called a reciprocating saw, and is available from Harbor Freight Tools for a mere $20.00 with one of their cupons.  A great buy to help you take your boat apart. or 800-423-2567-
    Last modified: February 24, 2013 10:45 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
<< First  < Prev   1   2   Next >  Last >>