Asymm Spinnaker Setup Pictures

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  • May 06, 2012 7:50 AM
    Message # 913021
    Deleted user
    I bit, and bought the asymm, and it is in great shape. 

    Can anyone who has setup their assym using Bud's recommended hardware config share pics of how it's installed?

    I'm trying to picture the masthead bail ( I thought I could just use the foresail halyard by itself), the vang on the bowsprit and where to put a block on the end of the boom.


    Last modified: May 07, 2012 9:35 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • May 06, 2012 9:12 AM
    Reply # 913049 on 913021

    You cannot use the headsail halyard, as it would rub on the headstay and soon wear through.  The bail I supply bolts to the top of the masthead, and sticks out in front.  A swivel block is attached to the bail for the halyard.  I will send you a picture of it.

    You can hang a snatch block on the boom bail at the end of the mainboom for the sheet.

  • May 07, 2012 9:41 AM
    Reply # 913785 on 913021
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

     This is the bail on Pygmalion - not sure if it is the model Bud sell's - may have come with the new mast.

  • May 09, 2012 9:09 AM
    Reply # 915637 on 913021

    Here is Bud's bail:

    Also, I don't like running the sheet out to the end of boom as I want to be able to use my asymm with the main up and vanged to windward, or sailing up to about 60* off the wind (which it does fabulously!) In both cases, the sail being sheeted end-boom is no good. I've had no issues sheeting to the fairlead I have for my jib sheet, then to the winch. If I'm down wind far enough I need the sheet out to the end of the boom,  I use our spinnaker pole.

    If I didn't have the pole though, /would/ use a block at the end of the boom, but only when way off the wind. I'd probably try to rig a block that could be case off from the boom quickly though, even with the boom all the way out - maybe a line to the block, led through the end-boom bail and to the reefing winch. This way I could easily head up or tack without having to sheet the boom in. I don't like the idea of being stuck with a sail out.


    Last modified: May 09, 2012 9:19 AM | Anonymous member
  • May 09, 2012 9:22 AM
    Reply # 915658 on 913021
    Deleted user

    Thanks! I hope you didn't go up there just for that!

    I have a Mast Mate ladder coming soon, I am going to go up the mast and install this myself. The cost of the ladder is about the same as the quote to hire someone to go up and do the install, so I figured I might as well man-up and get familiar with that end of my boat.

    The picture you have makes the hardware look a lot more substantial than the image Bud sent. I'm glad to see it.



    Last modified: May 09, 2012 9:28 AM | Deleted user
  • May 09, 2012 10:21 AM
    Reply # 915709 on 913021
    So did you drill and tap or through bolt the bail up onto the top of the mast? 

  • May 09, 2012 10:24 AM
    Reply # 915721 on 913021
    Drilled and through bolted with #14 bolts. It's not going anywhere!

    Those mastmates are nifty, though not really good for long periods of work up the mast. I like our aluminum steps - but if I didn't have them, would probably do the mast mate and deal with a harness/chair when needed.

  • May 09, 2012 5:22 PM
    Reply # 916076 on 913021
    Deleted user
    Sorry no picture,  but Mine looks just like Jay's on Pygmalion.

    It looks like Jay's keeps the block a bit higher than the other picture. 1" +/- every " counts.

    Stephen: I am afraid it looks like you need to shorten the luft Some feet. The cheap and fast for me was to cut it off the bottom. You will still need a wire in it if you fly it free.

    Oh Yes! Bud is correct;  the exit out the head with a free flying sail will saw through the halyard in no time (ok 10 or 15 minutes). 

    One out there thought!, you could extend the sprit (a temp fitting extended from it) and fly the sail outside of the pulpit??? (could not be very long without adding allot of load to the sprit)  more than a foot or 15" might be to much. But it would keep the sail off the furler +/-.  A bit of carbon some design and fit it over the end of the sprit? cool a Westsail poker;)   just remember 1400# on the forestay would = 1750 foot lb's  of tork on a 15" extension. Just a FYI

    Last modified: May 09, 2012 5:23 PM | Deleted user
  • May 09, 2012 6:34 PM
    Reply # 916095 on 913021
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I've acutally used the bail to fly a 150% jib - with the hanks removed - successfully..  Still a bit if exeriment and only use it with skilled crew as lowering and raising can be interesting.  I use a block behind the jibs winch to turn the sheet to the winch. 

  • May 10, 2012 11:28 AM
    Reply # 916844 on 915658

    I also concur with Norm about the luff length. It's possible that photo is deceptive, but if you want to fly an assym going to windward at all, you'll need to be able to get the luff pretty tight. That picture makes it seem like the luff is about 45 or 46'. This will be fine up to about 100* off the wind, but it'll collapse past that.

    Our sail is nearly a drifter cut (And it was recut from a symmetric triradial), so we can carry it all the way to 60* ish. Take some time to experiment with your chute though - maybe it'll do what you need just fine! And if it is a purpose-built deep-sailing asymmetric, just cutting some off the foot may not do it as the belly will still be quite deep. High-pointing sailing are considerably shallower in draft than low-point, deep reachers.

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