Hello everyone.  I am very close to having my project floating, and shortly after that I will stand the rig up for the first time since she sank.  I've never seen the rig standing, and I don't know or have confidence that the old stuff is right.  So,  I am hanging up all new rigging when I stand it up this spring.

Does anyone have the original stay lengths for all stays above deck (bobstay, boomkin, sprit whiskers are easy as they are fixed and unmovable)?  I ask b/c picture this... the boat is floating for the first time and have not a clue if she is trimmed perfect, and one wants to stand the rig up per the original specifications.  Is there rake?  If so, how does one tell rake if the boat may not be trimmed.  Likewise, is the mast supposed to be plumb on her lines?  Again, how does one tell plumb if the boat is not perfectly trim.  So, my question lies in specified production stay lengths pin-to-pin (mast-to-chainplate, or sprit, or boomkin)? 

If none of that is worth pursuing, in what way or order should I rig the stays?  I had thought of having all the upper connection points fabricated and fixed to the mast, stand up the mast, and start rigging.  I would start with the lower shrouds (I believe they are all the same length), then I would do the upper shrouds; which should be the same length.  At this point the mast is fixed laterally, but the fore and aft is not; which can have significant effects on length per degree out of proper order.  Maybe, with the lowers fixed (all the same length remember?) and then the uppers fixed (while trying to sight up the mast for straightness), the fore and aft will be easy as sighting more for straightness will take care of any issues/questions.  If this is correct, then the previous inquiry is of is a moot point. 

My boat has the taller mast, encapsulated cast lead ballast/keel, wooden bowsprit and boomkin, and original sail plan.

I'm open to any inquiries to help me get this boat rigged correctly, and sailing this spring.  Thanks for any and all assistance.

Fair Winds,

Tyler Bechel

S/V Cecilia LaBelle

Gary & Tate,

That is great and all, and I considered doing it that way too.  I read Bud's mast tuning you linked as well, and the greatest question is: how do I know the boat is level?  That seems very important to get the rake of 6" at boom level correct.  Obviously, then the rest falls into place.  Anything to add or some insight on knowing and having confidence that the boat is level?

Thanks again,

T.

I plan on doing it in the water, but I've never seen her float so I do not know what to look for if it is wrong.  I redid the bottom to, so a scribed water line no longer exists.  Are there measurements to make from the stern to the water, and bow to the water (not including the boomkin or sprit)?  I know that is relative to how loaded it is too (mine is sparse b/c of the refit), so to ask the question better, is there a measurement of how many inches more the bow is off the waterline than the stern (if not equal that is)?

Thanks,

T.

Ahoy Tyler,

On hull # 211 the distance to the water from the top of the cap rail at the bow is 56 3/4".  At the stern it is 41 1/2".  A difference of 15 1/4".  My boat is exactly level and floating a bit high.

My boat is the "Middle Generation" of W-32's.  The first generation with the totally removable cockpit, and the last generation with the flush lazarette hatch, may be different.

Also:  You may consider raking your mast Less than 6".  Many W-32 owners have complained about weather helm.  Moving the mast head forward is one way to reduce weather helm.  I have moved my mast head forward about 4".

Good luck