After four very cold swims last summer (in Maine) to free lobster trap warp from between my keel and  rudder, I think it's time for a protective "shoe" to close the gap between the rudder and keel.  I'm not sure yet what the design will look like, but should I use bronze or stainless to fabricate the guard?  What are the issues?  Can anyone suggest a non-metal alternative design?  Thanks. 

Paul:  

So has anyone figure out a way to cut loose the rope/line/fishing around the prop/shaft w/o getting in the water? 

It's been a question since I heard Dave King's tell how he had to dive and remove fishing line around the prop/shaft in mid Pacific. Very dangerous and cold operation for sure.

I've used a bread knife from a dingy to cut free a dingy painter - all safe and sound at a dock. 

I've though that a heavy serrated knife on the end of a boat hook might be an alternative to diving.  Maybe modified pruning hooks?

Thoughts?

Jay

 

Gary: I will field that question (I think; I may have talked Jay into it)

The fin functions in three ways 

1.) It works to reduce the pitching  (my smaller fin works above 6Kts+ and knocks off about 15% of the pitching +/-) blow that speed the water does not stay attached and it does not seam to do to much.

2.) It improves the slipstream (kind of like the wingtips on the lear 55 jet) +/-

3.) Improve tracking - and roll reduction  (like # 2 this has to do with the flow from downwind to upwind across the bottom of the keel)   to this end I am not sure we gained much i.e. I have not measured this in any real way, there may be some but ??

Jays' is a bit bigger than mine (we attempted to reduce the speed at which it starts to make a difference and to make a bigger effect)  I still need to follow up with Jay on this, and to measure the real change in pitching (std w32 , my small fin , and Jays larger fin ) same day same conditions type of test. I would also like to see if it effects the squat when under heavy motor (I think Jay had some pictures under motor and it seamed that his stern was not as deep in the water?? this could have been weight related but maybe this summer I can buddy sail with him and look into this more?

Oh lastly; in a forward direction it would keep lines a little farther out from the prop +/- as they went buy.  The stink pots call this a beaver tail I think.

Hope this covers the question.
Norm

p.s.  Jay from my experience with a yard sweep and blackberry vines, a sharp object at a right angle to the shaft (chisel ? on the end of a boat hook and a hammer on the other end?? may do the trick But one would have to take great care and I don't think you could do this mid ocean rocking in the big waves) (they make a cutter that looks like a spur gear that mounts on the shaft and is suppose to cut lines, but I don't have any experience with them)

Thank you all for your responses.  Jay, your fin is an interesting addition both in theory and form.  It looks like it would solve my lobster trap warp problem but I suspect it might not survive the occasional intentional low tide groundings I do for bottom cleaning. 

Though I don't know, I suspect the rudder pivot pins are bronze (as opposed to stainless) and would be happiest along side a bronze keel shoe.

Does anyone know if the lowest aft end of the keel is solid or hollow so I can plan mechanical fastenings to hold the shoe?