Above Waterline Cockpit Drain Relocation

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  • November 29, 2013 4:42 PM
    Message # 1448569
    Deleted user
    In a couple months I will haul my boat for a barrier coat and some thruhull rearranging.
    I have read a bit about the cockpit thruhull above waterline mod but I can't find the info for a review. Can someone provide me a link? Or all the links on this subject because I am scared to death not for cutting new holes but for properly filling the existing holes.
    I have almost zero fiberglass experience.

    I'm thinking 4 coats Interlux Interprotect 2000 and maybe 3 coats Trinidad.

    Are we installing seacocks at the above waterline cockpit drain thruhulls such as Marelon for safety and weight issues?

    Should I eliminate the transducer thing and lightning ground bar?

    I should have about $5,000 for the project and a few weeks off work. 
    I guess the barrier coat and bottom paint to cost about $1500.

    When I bought my 1974 W32 two years ago on the hard the boat has been known to never have a blister so I'm not expecting much if any so that shouldn't be an issue that I'd have to deal with.

    Any advice is greatly welcomed.

    Thanks
     
  • November 30, 2013 9:05 AM
    Reply # 1448795 on 1448569
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Carl Schaefer wrote:In a couple months I will haul my boat for a barrier coat and some thruhull rearranging.
    I have read a bit about the cockpit thruhull above waterline mod but I can't find the info for a review. Can someone provide me a link?
     
    Jay: Here is a link abt some work on the thru hulls...
     
    Or all the links on this subject because I am scared to death not for cutting new holes but for properly filling the existing holes.
    I have almost zero fiberglass experience.
    Jay: Link
    I'm thinking 4 coats Interlux Interprotect 2000 and maybe 3 coats Trinidad.
     
    Jay: Link  to extensive images of hull work done in Stockton. 
    Are we installing seacocks at the above waterline cockpit drain thruhulls such as Marelon for safety and weight issues?

    Should I eliminate the transducer thing and lightning ground bar?
    Jay: Does your transducer mount look like this or possibly with an even larger  blob hanging on the hull?  If you can replace your depth sounder with the newer types that don't need a hole in the hull -- yes that would be recommended.
     
    Photo

    I should have about $5,000 for the project and a few weeks off work. 
    I guess the barrier coat and bottom paint to cost about $1500.

    When I bought my 1974 W32 two years ago on the hard the boat has been known to never have a blister so I'm not expecting much if any so that shouldn't be an issue that I'd have to deal with.

    Any advice is greatly welcomed.

    Thanks
     

    Carl:
    research the above links as well as the members area FAQ and the WOA Picasa albums   .

    Hope this helps.

    jay

  • November 30, 2013 10:43 AM
    Reply # 1448832 on 1448569
    Deleted user
    Awesome Jay,
    Thanks a Mill.

    Oh yeah, I have that blob thing, maybe a bigger blob even.
    I have a Dynaplate also grounded to my chainplates.
    Yes I'm aware of the controversy of these plates, I should review that topic also.

    I heard of someone soda blasting off the many layers of bottom paint and I guess there is a hand power tool as an option other than a grinder for removal.
    Last modified: November 30, 2013 10:56 AM | Deleted user
  • November 30, 2013 8:14 PM
    Reply # 1449026 on 1448569
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Carl:  I believe that the soda blasting was used on the 4 boats in stockton... sand blasting removes to much to fast - down't want to remove the gel coat  ... just down to the gel coat. 

    Study up on how your yard will allow you to remove the bottom paint.  My yard in alameda now requires that the yard only sands the bottom paint - to limit the paint getting into the estuary. 

    I'm thinking that removing to the gel coat will be the hard part of the job.  Do call the manufactor if you have questions on application / surface prep.

    Jay

  • December 01, 2013 4:32 PM
    Reply # 1449391 on 1448569
    Deleted user
    The previous owner told me today that there has only been 3 coats bottom paint since he had it all removed. I bought the boat 2 years ago on the hard and remember the black bottom looking almost as smooth at a school slate chalkboard, and as I mentioned above my boat has yet to have a blister.
    So removing all the paint shouldn't be that bad.

    Jay, I like how you routed your drain hoses.
    Does your boat have a Dynaplate?
    Where is your depth sounder sensor located?
  • December 03, 2013 10:01 AM
    Reply # 1450861 on 1449391
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Carl Schaefer wrote:The previous owner told me today that there has only been 3 coats bottom paint since he had it all removed. I bought the boat 2 years ago on the hard and remember the black bottom looking almost as smooth at a school slate chalkboard, and as I mentioned above my boat has yet to have a blister.
    So removing all the paint shouldn't be that bad.

    Jay, I like how you routed your drain hoses.
    A: Link
    Does your boat have a Dynaplate?
    A: Not at this time... about 10 years ago I replace it with a large zinc plate - probably NOT needed.  Pygmalion has a large copper grounding wire from the base of the mast to the zinc/dynaplate as a lightening path from mast to the sea.  This needs to be rethought as I've heard of the lightening actually blowing a hole through the hull.  - I sail in a very low risk lightening area (SF Bay) so do research and risk analysis on lightning solutions.
     
    Where is your depth sounder sensor located?
    A:  My thru hull transducer is located mid ship stb side - and installed so it "shines" straight down.  You need to keep all air bubbles out of the area between the transducer and the hull.
     
    Carl: to be clear - the transducer is mounted inside the hull - so no hole thru the hull is needed.  My Navman depth sounder had both types of transducers - available. 
    PS I don't recommend the Navman series of instruments.
     
    Hope this helps

    Last modified: December 03, 2013 7:37 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • December 03, 2013 11:19 AM
    Reply # 1450921 on 1448569
    Carl-
    For what it's worth, my ancient depth sounder transducer is installed inside the hull, and, despite it's age and the fact that it was definitely intended for outside-the-hull mounting, it does just fine. (It's located at the bottom of the hanging locker by the nav station, in an oil-filled reservoir glassed to the inside of the hull, like the first example in this link.) I'm pretty sure the transducer you already have would work fine from inside, too.
    J
    Last modified: December 03, 2013 11:22 AM | Anonymous member
  • December 03, 2013 3:30 PM
    Reply # 1451130 on 1448569
    Deleted user
    Bud has some good info about lightning grounding in his service manual.
    He mentions the bolts melting in a Dynaplate also as you do.
    I think he recommends ditching  the plate and using a bolt through the hull.
    But I'm confused as the bolt should melt also.

    Maybe I'm misunderstanding the article.

    Are you clear about what he is suggesting?

    Thanks
  • December 03, 2013 7:11 PM
    Reply # 1451223 on 1448569
    Deleted user

    The Dyna plate is pores and explodes when superheated.  The Ham guru Gorden West no longer says Dyna plates or copper bonding is necessary.  He says all you need is a good ground to something like a thru-hull or in our case the sacrificial zinc.

     

    Jim

    Last modified: December 03, 2013 7:13 PM | Deleted user
  • December 03, 2013 7:25 PM
    Reply # 1451227 on 1448569
    Deleted user
    Jim 
    Are we still talking about lightning strikes?
    Is this getting confused?
    Ground 8awg copper wire from the mast or chainplates to a thruhull?
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