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Propane tank on gallows, and through-deck fitting

  • August 02, 2013 8:05 PM
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    Message # 1357345
    Anonymous
    I'm installing a propane system on a W32. The gallows has storage lockers, and I'd like to run the hose down along the gallows, to a through-deck opening in the bulwarks, right around the cockpit. 

    Anyone have any ideas on how to make the flexible hose from the tank mate with the copper tubing I'll have running through the boat to the galley? Typically I've used a vapor-tight fitting like this one:

    Vapor Tight Straight-Through Fittings
    But that was in a propane locker. If I used this in the cockpit, I assume I'd have at least a couple inches of copper tubing, nipple, and hose end poking out of the bulwarks, which seems a bit awkward for seating and general work around the cockpit. 

    I'm guessing someone's solved this problem, as the gallows are a common place to mount propane tanks. 

    Another option is just running a long hose from tank to galley, and merely run the hose through a simple straight-thru fitting on the deck, but that means having hose in an unventable area (i.e. the engine room), which I suspect is pretty dicey, even in these days of high-quality high-pressure hose. 

    Or perhaps run the copper tubing all the way to the regulator? Seems like that would be a bit ugly. Anyhow, all suggestions welcome. 

    Thanks!
    Last modified: August 03, 2013 6:19 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • August 02, 2013 9:00 PM
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    Reply # 1357356 on 1357345
    Kevin Donahue

    I have my propane tank and solenoid mounted on my stern pulpit and have a long one piece flexible (covered rubber) propane hose running directly to my stove in the galley via the bulwarks.  The hose enters the hull via a thru hull fitting mounted in the sheer aft just below the caprail.  I feel like its safer to have only one connection inside the boat (the connection at the stove) rather than several connections as one transitions from flexible hose to copper and back again.

    I slid the thru hull fitting onto the propane hose before the ends were swaged onto the hose and also used a small amount of bedding around the hose where it passes thru the thru hull.  I've used this arrangement on several boats over the years with no negative issues.
  • August 03, 2013 6:59 PM
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    Reply # 1357900 on 1357345
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I've started an album of propane tank installations - - only couple of images -- here is what my owner did on Pygmalion many years ago.

    He mounted 2 wood with fiberglass overlay boxes in the boom gallows supports.  One of the concerns is a large wave - hitting the boxes and wiping them off the gallows.

    I modified to have a drain overboard and also replaced the copper tube (almost completly rotted through) with a SS tube between the box and the caprail.  The all rubber tubing now goes throug the SS tube and through the engine compartment and bulk head to the galley stove/oven.

    Here the valve is detailed the raw gas sensor is installed below the galley stove .

    I would also recommend a review of Nigel Calders book "Boatowners electrical and mechanical manual"  pages 662 onward has a lot of good information - also online resources.

    Finally here is an image of a installation in the cockpit.

    Hope this helps -- I'd recommend that copper tube NOT be used.

    Jay
  • August 04, 2013 11:23 PM
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    Reply # 1358465 on 1357345
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Stephen Wylie adds:

    See attached for my two bits. Spare is in similar location on other side, both with covers like the spare. The setup is as per my PO, the lexan box was my add-on, it replaced a bulkier teak thing was thicker and had nut heads that scratched the tiller when it was hard over.
  • August 05, 2013 9:14 AM
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    Reply # 1358836 on 1357345
    Anonymous
    It would seem like the cockpit install would require above water line cockpit drains, otherwise any leaks would just accumulate in the cockpit well. 
  • August 05, 2013 1:00 PM
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    Reply # 1359032 on 1357345
    Anonymous
    Jay,

    Thanks for the photos and walkthrough.

    Two questions:

    Am I understanding the photos correctly that you have the gas line and solenoid wires going through the caprail? Isn't the keel/hull joint in there? I'd be really disinclined to drill through that, unless this is accepted practice for Westsails. I was thinking I'd drill through the bulwark, right below the caprail, where I've seen lots of plumbing go through on Westsails.

    Your suggestion for no copper: is that just based on the massive pain of flaring and bending copper? In general I'd agree with you, but on my Tayana they used hose. When I poked around, I realized the hose was cracking and about to go. Fairly terrifying. Does going best-practices permit hose all throughout, and just call for frequent checks and replacement? 


  • August 05, 2013 2:02 PM
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    Reply # 1359066 on 1359032
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Two questions:

    Am I understanding the photos correctly that you have the gas line and solenoid wires going through the caprail? Isn't the keel/hull joint in there? I'd be really disinclined to drill through that, unless this is accepted practice for Westsails. I was thinking I'd drill through the bulwark, right below the caprail, where I've seen lots of plumbing go through on Westsails.

    Your suggestion for no copper: is that just based on the massive pain of flaring and bending copper? In general I'd agree with you, but on my Tayana they used hose. When I poked around, I realized the hose was cracking and about to go. Fairly terrifying. Does going best-practices permit hose all throughout, and just call for frequent checks and replacement? 


    I have drilled a 1" dia hole through the caprail (enlarged the existing hole) and the deck/hull joint - inserted a 1" SS tube that protects the wires and LPG hose from chafe - with plenty of flexable sealent to keep the hose away from sharp edges...  As far as the weakening of the area - on most vessels the deck and hull have a flange that is bolted together with (I think) 1/4" SS bolts.  Further, the ig sheet track has something like 15 + 5/16 bolts on each side.  I don't think that I have weakened the area much over all.

    When I reworked this area - the existing copper tube was just exposed from the tank and through the caprail area and was 90% corroded away -- ready to leak shortly.  With regular LPG hose since it is protected from the sun - I'm expecting a long life.

    Here is a link to a lot of images on the cap rails - and how some of us have fixed the leaks.

    Hope this helps.

    Jay

    Last modified: August 06, 2013 7:31 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • August 05, 2013 3:43 PM
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    Reply # 1359130 on 1357345
    Anonymous
    Here's the storage silo for the tank, and my proposed setup. Just posting to see if you passes a basic sanity check. 


     

    The idea is to just drill a whole in the bulwark with some sane pass-through fitting. I could terminate the hose there, and have another shorter hose go to the solenoid. The idea being that shorter hose would take all the UV wear and could be easily replaced rather than re-run hose through the engine room every year (or whatever it is). 

    I could easily mount regulator and solenoid along the tube somehow (perhaps by extending the wooden bracket that's holding the tank against the gallows frame). 

    Seems like a simple setup. Curious if there are any glaring flaws with the idea. 

    Thanks, A. 
    Last modified: August 06, 2013 7:32 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • August 05, 2013 3:44 PM
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    Reply # 1359135 on 1357345
    Anonymous
    Jay,

    I'd avoid drilling through the caprail if it seems like sealing is an issue. There doesn't seem to be much advantage to going through the caprail rather than the bulwark, other than a slightly shorter run for the hose, and the fact the fittings don't poke out, potentially into someone's back, rather than straight up. ~A. 
  • August 06, 2013 9:42 AM
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    Reply # 1359808 on 1357345
    Deleted user
    The pictures of my setup don't show the hoses going through the bulwark, it is just not in the picture - it doesn't go through the caprail.