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Thru-hulls

  • April 26, 2013 8:40 PM
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    Message # 1279786
    Deleted user
    Hello all, more questions from the new guy. 

    When I turned my thru-hulls to the shut position I find that they still leak ever slightly. Is there a way to resolve this so that my bilge stays dry, or is this just something I need to live with? Honestly I am paranoid and have began thinking this is a problem and if you agree can you point me to a repair process.

    Also is there a pro or con for having [b]scupper drain[/b] hoses routed to the cockpit drains? I might want to modify my scuppers to simply drain overboard instead of down through a thru-hull. 
  • April 27, 2013 6:49 AM
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    Reply # 1279956 on 1279786
    Deleted user
    The thruhulls shouldn't leak, although one of mine seems to have a puddle around it every so often.  If yours do they need attention.  If in the water loosen the T handle, grease them up real well and re-tighten the T handle.  If this doesn't work you probably need to overhaul them the next time you pull the boat out of the water.(I think there's instructions for that in one of the sections)  As far as routing the scupper drains, I ran mine aft to just under the boomkin stays and above the waterline.  I did this for two reasons one I don't like holes in my boat (I'm down to only 3) and two, it gives you more 'workable' room around the engine. But again this is something to be done at haulout. 
  • April 27, 2013 9:53 AM
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    Reply # 1280061 on 1279786
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    I'll second Larry's comments on the cockpit scuppers -- much better above the water line verses in the engine room --(What were they thinking). 

    I suspect that if your thru hulls are original installation they need reseating at best and replacement if possible.  I found the Black marelon (sp) very easy to work with.  

    Your current valves (assuming they are like mine old ones) have a rubber center that when you tighten the screws opposite the valve lever will squish the rubber and should stop any leaks. 

    But - if the rubber sticks to the sides of the cylinder and you force the lever open/closed the rubber can tear away and NOT open or close but the lever will LOOK open or closed.  Therefore the valves need regular maintenance / exercise -- I added a grease zert and used water proof grease from time to time before they were replaced. 
    Photo
    Location on Pygmalion 
     
    Hope this helps   

    Jay
    Last modified: November 30, 2013 8:37 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • April 28, 2013 3:52 AM
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    Reply # 1280440 on 1279786
    Deleted user
    Messieurs, how do you add the greace when the boat is in the water? And if you have a water intake for the galley sink, where is it situated? 
    Au plaisir,
    Jean
    Last modified: April 28, 2013 4:40 AM | Deleted user
  • April 28, 2013 8:18 AM
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    Reply # 1280559 on 1279786
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Yup - removal of the valve for servicing in the water would be very tough - but possible if plugged by a diver (I have not done this) ?  Better the service is done out of the water of course....

    To just add grease, the zert is added to the body of the valve (Mine had a 1/8" pipe plug that I removed and screwed in the zert) will allow you to use a grease pump to push in the water proof grease.  Assuming all is well inside the valve - should not be a high risk of taking on water during the removal and instllation of the zert.  I found stainless steel zerts locally. And several years later the zert was still in good shape when the valve replaced.

      Hope this helps. 

    Jay

    Last modified: April 28, 2013 8:21 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)