Michael:
You are correct that no one makes the cap rail parts. A point you should take to hart MOST of the parts for our boats are no longer made!!!!!!!!!!!!
Let me repeat "MOST of the parts for our and other boats are no longer made!!!!!!!!!!!!" this includeds boats more than one year old.
(Less that wonderful Bud Taplin and the Lefiell mast co. and the rig rite guys for the nico fico tracks). The marine industry has 6 month runs of product +/- so get use to it! next boat show, you won't find matching parts for what they sold last boat show.
You asked about pattern, I tried to help there but here goes again in detail.
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1.) Pick your seam pattern \ and remove all hardware and old stuff.
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2.) Get the boards up on deck cut the ends to fit the rolled sections normally square on the ends or what ever you have.
3.) Set your boards that are 8"+ wide and 8' long +/- on the cap rail so they cover it and the seams are 1" inside the top of the caprail. (They are all straight boards at this point)
Please check that they all overhang a min of 1" inside and outside the bulworks before cutting. see manual Page #198
4.) use a Router to cut and match the boards at the seams " watch that they are at the angles that covered the cap rail (step#3)" (cut them with the pattern from step 1 and they need to fit together one after another from the roll over on one end all the way to the other.
5.) OK, temp screw them down 2 screws / board (wood screws) all fit together.
6.) get out that router and prepare to become a beaver (get a fence guide for the router so that sitting on top of the new rail made up of joined straight boards, you can rout off the inside edges of the boards. The guide fence will need to be set so that you can get no closer to the bullworks than 1") "set the fence to guide off the bulworks under the boards. cut away until you have a nice inside curve.
7.) check the inside edge to see that it looks fair and has a nice curve to it. Fix it if not, sand less than 1/2" more away to make it look good. may or may not be need.
8.) Next set the fence so that you guide off the new inside edge and start at 8" out and work your way down by 1/2" slices to 4"+from the inside of the boards for the new outside curve (be careful doing this step as the guide holds you to the work, but not from digging into the work, so you have to hold pressure out on the router so that the router does not dig in (very Very Very important).
Option 2 (safer option) is to mark the boards 4" from the inside curve and then cut them back at the shop.
9.) Put a guided rollover bit in and rout both sides
10.) Pull them all up and follow Jays example of re-bedding and re-varnishing them.
Else: Find a wood worker and have them do it for you!
Cutting from a drawing will not work as well, as in the 1970's boats were not cnc precision cut.
Last modified: February 04, 2013 1:54 PM | Deleted user