Matching Mast Paint

  • January 14, 2013 9:30 PM
    Message # 1180080
    Deleted user
    I will be soon stepping the mast--- an aluminum extrusion painted white.  Galvanic corrosion has bubbled many areas but I do not want to strip the entire mast but rather was going to strip the bubbled areas then prime, paint, and feather into the existing good paint.  Which brings me to my question:  What is the best paint to match the factory white paint used on the W43/42 white aluminum masts?
  • January 15, 2013 5:47 AM
    Reply # 1180244 on 1180080
    Deleted user

    Great Question!  The prior owner of Harmony had the main and mizzen masts stripped and partially painted, which is to say that there is at least 1 finish coat on the masts.  However, I do need to put a final coat on AND refurbish all three booms for reasons similar to your mast project.

    The paint is not a bright white, but rather what I will call an "antique" white.  Now I guess I could repaint with a brilliant white, but I would rather not re-prime and paint everything.  I asked the yard what they remember, and I haven't been able to get an answer yet.

    Doug

  • January 15, 2013 12:25 PM
    Reply # 1180608 on 1180080
    Deleted user
    I just repainted my mast this summer. I spoke with the Lafiel guys at the strictly sail show and he recomended a polyurethane paint such as Brightside. These paints however are very volitle and can ripple any underlying paint if not properly prepared. I went on line to Interlux and got great technical and procedural advice from thier tech support guys. I had real trouble with the tip and roll and had to finish coat with spraying but it eventually came out great. Well see how long it lasts.   
  • January 15, 2013 6:32 PM
    Reply # 1180865 on 1180080
    Deleted user

    I have used Brightside to paint coachroof on our prior boat.  Being a one part paint it is very easy to apply and the results are very good.  As with any paint, the preparation/primer underneath is really important, as is the application of a not too thick top coat.  I found the paint lasted about 10 years before it began to show serious degredation.  Over that time we had our boat in San Francisco for 3 years and Marion (New England) for the rest.  While in New England the boat is covered from November to May.

    After 10 years, I had to sand down the old coat, reprime and repaint.  I used a brush and did not spray.  One part paint is easy to apply, but is limited in life span.  Having said that, I have no relevant comparison of 2 part paint.

    I have also used a Petit 1 part paint to paint the interior of our previous boat.  The boat had Teak patterned formica on the bulkheads (classic 1965), and after vigorous sanding, 2 coats of sanded primer, and 2 coats of the Petit top coat, it looked great.  Now, the UV degredation was not a problem, but the wear and tear of living on a 32 footer gave it some challenges,  After 14 years, the Petit 1 part paint looked as good as the day it was applied.

    I would think both the Brightside and Petit paints would have about the same life span.  Now, Interlux and Petit may choose to argue that point, but they are allowed their points of view.

    Doug

  • January 16, 2013 9:20 PM
    Reply # 1181759 on 1180244
    Deleted user
    Douglas Tate wrote:

    Great Question!  The prior owner of Harmony had the main and mizzen masts stripped and partially painted, which is to say that there is at least 1 finish coat on the masts.  However, I do need to put a final coat on AND refurbish all three booms for reasons similar to your mast project.

    The paint is not a bright white, but rather what I will call an "antique" white.  Now I guess I could repaint with a brilliant white, but I would rather not re-prime and paint everything.  I asked the yard what they remember, and I haven't been able to get an answer yet.

    Doug

    My experience with the windlass cast aluminum housing was that the white paint on the casing was uber-tough.  So tough in fact that I spent alot of time in a friends aluminum oxide blasting booth and even still could barely get the paint off!!!  The only areas that needed paint were the areas of galvanic corrosion which bubbled up BENEATH the paint.  So I figure any paint I apply will be inferior to the factory paint EXCEPT the areas of galvanic corrosion.  What I did was get some SEM self-etching aluminum primer--so far so good ( I am talking about the windlass again as a reference for comparison) and now I can top coat.

    Brightsides?  Really?  I am thinking maybe Ameron PSX700 or some such 2 part epoxy but of course that's only if I can't figure out the nuclear proof factory paint.

    Thanks.
  • January 17, 2013 7:51 AM
    Reply # 1182046 on 1180080
    Deleted user

    Ed, I concur with your skepticism about a "brightside" type of paint for the aluminum extrusions.  My comments were meant to express my experience with durability and longevity of the Interlux Brightside only.  I personally would want a tougher paint for the spars, but also one that I can apply myself in yard.

    I am not sure what the prior owner did to refinish the mast, but on the booms and spreaders, I can tell you that the factory paint still looks pretty dang solid.  Yes, I do have a couple of spots of galvanic corrosion at the points of attachment for boom bales.  However, the rest of the original paint is solid.

    Relative to the booms, I only have to "fix" the areas of corrosion and feather the paint with the original.  However, the mainmast is where I may need to apply a finish coat, as the prior owner and yard stripped, etched, and primed the mast.  I believe the mizzen mast requires the same finish coat treatment.

    I just haven't been able to find out what paint and what color to get for that final coat.  Yes, I suspect the yard may have some answers, but having more data is helpful.  I would rather keep the original color scheme AND not go to a brilliant white.  This would require a ton more work that is mostly cosmetic and not recessary.  Heck, I know what happens when starts a dominoe effect of changes!!!

    Doug

  • January 17, 2013 11:27 AM
    Reply # 1182223 on 1180080
    Deleted user
    The paint on a windless is probably a baked on enamel or powered coated.  Both are much harder than any paint including two part epoxy paints.  I no longer use Brightside paint and have been using Detco two part marine/aviation paint for about ten years. It's extremely durable and outlasts everything else I've used and lays on beautifully. The downside is cost, it's pretty pricey.  I am particular about paint as I use to build and paint street rods.      
    Jim
  • January 17, 2013 4:23 PM
    Reply # 1182460 on 1180080
    Deleted user
    I am gonna pick up the Ameron PSX 700 from Marine Express in Alameda.  Basically it's a 2-part epoxy siloxthane which can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed.  I will be the guinea pig.  It's used often commercially and in the military but some reason hasn't found its way into the retail marine market.

    Thanks.  Yeah powder coating and baking the spar is not gonna happen.  It didn't even happen for the windlass as it was easier to just etch and prime not bake as I didn't want to remove the shaft seals as they were press fit in the casting.  The Ameron is gonna be my paint of choice unless I can get the factory p[aint.  I actually worked with Gus LaFiel in the late 70's but he was 80 in 1978 so that would make him what 105 now?
  • January 18, 2013 5:29 PM
    Reply # 1183407 on 1180080
    Deleted user
    Update. FYI I stopped in at Buzz'sPlace---- Ballenger Spar Systems.  They etch then use awlgrip epoxy primer followed by perfection LPU topcoat.  They made me a new Hoyt Boom and used this method and it looks like the original.

    They were interested in my results with the Ameron PSX700.

    I'll keep everyone posted.