Rudder removal

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  • September 19, 2012 3:10 PM
    Message # 1076925
    Deleted user
    Siempre Sabado (W28) is currently on the hard in San Carlos, Mexico.  Among the projects planned is, hopefully, tightening up the slop in the rudder.  We have slop at the tiller to rudder connection but we also have slop in the rudder itself.  Not sure what we need to do about it yet but I do know that we need to take a looke at the pintles and gudgeons to see where the slop is located.  It appears that the pintles are simply bolted to the rudder and that, if the bolts were removed, the rudder could simply be pulled sideways off the pintles.  Is this right?  Any surprises I might be in for, other than the weight of the rudder?  Any idea what the rudder on a W28 weighs?

    -Steve
  • September 19, 2012 3:56 PM
    Reply # 1076942 on 1076925
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Steve:

    I have an album of rudder images from Ladd's Marine this spring.  Hopefully you can browse the images for ideas as these are all W32's.

    Here is some scuffing on the bronze.

    Last modified: September 19, 2012 4:05 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • September 19, 2012 4:01 PM
    Reply # 1076945 on 1076925
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Stephen Yoder wrote:Siempre Sabado (W28) is currently on the hard in San Carlos, Mexico.  Among the projects planned is, hopefully, tightening up the slop in the rudder.  We have slop at the tiller to rudder connection but we also have slop in the rudder itself.  Not sure what we need to do about it yet but I do know that we need to take a looke at the pintles and gudgeons to see where the slop is located.  It appears that the pintles are simply bolted to the rudder and that, if the bolts were removed, the rudder could simply be pulled sideways off the pintles.  Is this right?  Any surprises I might be in for, other than the weight of the rudder?  Any idea what the rudder on a W28 weighs?

    -Steve


    I wasn't there when the rudders were removed at Ladd's -- but the rudders were either removed for repair and/or hung from the boom gallows with a spare line.  2 can handle the rudder easily IMHO.

    On Pygmalion- I had slop between the tiller and rudder - used plastic shims to take up the space on each side of the tiller.

    Hope this helps. 

    Last modified: September 19, 2012 4:22 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • September 20, 2012 6:17 AM
    Reply # 1077582 on 1076925

    I removed my rudder (W32) by running a line behind the upper most gudgeon and through the hawse pipes to cleats.  The weight is a surprise when it finally gives, so watch out as these things are ~200lb and a little awkward to handle.

    Can anybody speak to whether or not the dezincification of the pintles is a serious matter?  How can one tell if it is still usable?  My pintles have blotchy dezincification, but I'd like to know if it is a bad idea to just put them back onto the boat.

    Tyler 

  • September 20, 2012 7:27 AM
    Reply # 1077658 on 1076925
    Deleted user
    Thanks Jay and Tyler.  Jay, the photo album was very helpful.

    Question about the gudgeon bolts:  What do they screw in to? Is there a nut encased in the fiberglass?  Is the fiberglass threaded?  I'm always leery when a bolt disappears into fiberglass and I can't see the nut on the other end.  Will the embedded nut spin?  Will the fiberglass threads strip?  Neither scenario is a good one.

    -Steve
  • September 20, 2012 8:11 AM
    Reply # 1077695 on 1076925

    I have fiberglass gudgeons, and they were thru-bolted to the hull.  Meaning all the way through the hull from one side to the other with a nut on one side (all external hardware and no embedding of anything).

    Tyler

  • September 20, 2012 11:32 AM
    Reply # 1077894 on 1076925

    Steve,

    I've had the rudder off on both the 28's I've owned.  It's a simple procedure as you have already figured.  Remove the 12 nuts and bolts that pass thru the rudder and pintals and slide the rudder off to the port side.  Don't forget to remove the tiller first. (spoken from experience)  Years of bottom paint may work as a glue of sorts around the pintals.

     I used 2 block and tackles attached to my boomkin (1 on Port and 1 on Starboard) and tied a harness of lines around the rudder to take the load.  The rudder is more awkward than heavy, but with two people and the block and tackle it is not a difficult operation to remove or reinstall.

    I found that much of my wobble was from a badly worn top pintal on my boat.  Bud can supply a direct replacement.  My lower 2 pintals were both ok, but I replaced all 3 of them anyway. 

    Like others have said some shims on either side of the tiller will eliminate the tiller wobble.  It seems as though the Westsail stainless tillerhead boxes were not made square they all seem to be wider on the forward ends and taper in as they go aft.  I found a couple of pieces of 1/8" delrin sheet that I attached to the sides at the end of my tiller and sanded them to match the tillerhead box tapper.  You may also want to attach a piece of material to the bottom of your tiller where it exits the tillerhead box.  I found the tillers on my boats rested a little too low so I was constantly holding them up a couple inches and over time it gets heavy.  This is only an issue if one is doing a lot of hand steering.

    Kevin

    Last modified: September 20, 2012 11:33 AM | Kevin Donahue
  • September 20, 2012 1:46 PM
    Reply # 1078049 on 1077658
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Stephen Yoder wrote:Thanks Jay and Tyler.  Jay, the photo album was very helpful.

    Question about the gudgeon bolts:  What do they screw in to? Is there a nut encased in the fiberglass?  Is the fiberglass threaded?  I'm always leery when a bolt disappears into fiberglass and I can't see the nut on the other end.  Will the embedded nut spin?  Will the fiberglass threads strip?  Neither scenario is a good one.

    -Steve
    One additional trick is to stick each bolt into a piece of cardboard as on the w32 each bolt was a different length.  
  • September 21, 2012 3:19 PM
    Reply # 1079298 on 1076925
    Deleted user
    I don't know about other owners' Associations, but the members of the WOA are a truly helpful bunch.  Where else can you ask boat-specific questions and get comprehensive answers in a few hours or, at most, a day or so?  Thank you all.

    -Steve
  • September 22, 2012 4:53 AM
    Reply # 1079865 on 1076925

    the top gudgeon should be bolted through the skin of the hull and the nuts should be accessible from the lazerette.  the bottom pair of gudgeons should be bolted clear through the deadwood which is supposed to be solid.

    have removed my W28 rudder twice so far.  the first time we just undid the gudgeon bolts and pulled off the whole assembly, gudgeons and all, less the tiller.  i had 2 helpers on that occasion.  i wasnt all that heavy.

    the second time, i undid the double nuts on the pintles and lifted it clear with one helper.  later i tossed it on the car's roof racks singlehanded, but that was a struggle.

    put a heavy block under the rudder and then use a couple of wedges to lift it clear of whatever it is bearing on.  then you can push it around to see where your slop is.

    my plan for this week is to make new set of gudgeons per bud's manual.

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