Dave King's "WESTSAIL UNDERBODY PERFORMANCE MODIFICATIONS"

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  • December 27, 2013 7:08 PM
    Message # 1464170
    Deleted user
    I searched this forum and Jack Webb's Westsail Archives and can not find this write up  from Dave King from many years ago.
    It may have been shortened to "Dave kings performance mods".

    Any help?

    Respectfully,
    Carl 
  • December 27, 2013 7:46 PM
    Reply # 1464173 on 1464170
    Anonymous
    Carl, try this link:
  • December 27, 2013 10:41 PM
    Reply # 1464213 on 1464170
    Deleted user
    Thanks Gary but the link comes up dead.

    The modification I'm looking for is about 25 years old and was made by Dave and he told me it is still around somewhere.

    Thanks,
    Carl


  • December 28, 2013 2:20 AM
    Reply # 1464247 on 1464170
    Deleted user
    Carl,

    Check your email. Sent the PDF.

    Werner
  • December 28, 2013 3:09 AM
    Reply # 1464254 on 1464170
    Deleted user
    Werner,
    I got the email, thats what I was looking for!

    Thanks Werner, Thanks Gary.

    Btw, I bought some G-10 epoxy board for use as backing plates for all my new seacocks.
    Could I also use this material for my "plugs" for my thruhull holes that I am no longer using (former below waterline cockpit drains holes)???


    Carl
  • December 28, 2013 9:17 AM
    Reply # 1464349 on 1464170
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I've modified the document location to

    http://www.westsail.org:80/resources/Documents/Articles/DaveKingMods.pdf

    The google docs share says anyone can read w/o login but something isn't working right.

    Carl: I'll assume you also saw the images from the Stockton job with 4 boats at one time! 

    Jay

  • December 28, 2013 2:29 PM
    Reply # 1464431 on 1464170
    Deleted user
    Jay,
    Yes; I have studied that as well but I don't remember the filling of any holes. Were they plugging them with circle pieces of epoxy board?
    Thanks
  • December 28, 2013 4:03 PM
    Reply # 1464451 on 1464170

    Ahoy Carl,

    Regarding the write-up and the filling of holes.  Page 3 shows how the holes would be filled using polyester resin.  If using epoxy (recommended) then put the Largest piece of glass down first onto the old material.  Then add each additional piece from largest to smallest.  On the inside of the hull, it is not necessary to grind away a divot.  Just grind the area clean and lay the layers of glass standing proud.  Use the same pattern/sequence as on the outside.  Be sure both lay-ups are good - that is, no bubbles.  For the filler, I use PVC foam. Or "boat builders foam".  Just about anything will work though as long as it will properly hold the epoxy.

    Good luck,

  • December 28, 2013 4:35 PM
    Reply # 1464470 on 1464170
    Deleted user
    Thank you very much Dave,

     
    I am using 5/8" thick G-10 (Garolite) for my seacock backing plates and was hoping that I could use the 1-1/2" cutouts that I need to hole saw from the G-10 for the "plug" for the discontinued holes in the hull.



    I bought two 12"x12" pieces, they cost $173 including shipping but when you divide that into eight- 6" circle backing plates it's only $21.62 each.

    Here is a link to the method;
    (note the link contains 2 pages)


    Carl


    Last modified: December 29, 2013 8:17 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • December 29, 2013 8:30 AM
    Reply # 1464636 on 1464170
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Carl:  Here is an album of hull patching from my picasa site.  Link

    The use of peel ply (West systems 879 Release Fabric?)  on the outside will help keep the epoxy and glass from sagging.. ie you can work the bubbles out of the patch with a metal/aluminum? roller and push it up until the epoxy has set enough to hold it's position.

    When the epoxy has hardened - the peel ply - peels off and you are ready to fair out and finish.

    Hope this helps.

    Jay

    Last modified: December 30, 2013 6:15 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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