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Good Teak Grab Rail Source?

  • December 05, 2013 4:40 PM
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    Message # 1452704
    Deleted user
    I have the typical grab rails.
    3 independent sections on port and stbd.

    1st, 2 grab handles
    2nd 5 grab handles
    3rd 6 grab handles

    Can you help me with a good quality source for buying new grab rails?

    Thanks

  • December 06, 2013 4:42 AM
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    Reply # 1452946 on 1452704
    Deleted user
    Check out http://www.ebay.com/usr/teakhutonline  This is the online store for Teak Decking Systems.  They have been very helpful for us in the past.  Call Roberto @ 941-756-0660.  Great for replacement deck planks and teak grab rails.

    Cheers,
    Mike
  • December 06, 2013 7:20 AM
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    Reply # 1453033 on 1452704
    Deleted user

    A privately owned and operated outfit in Thailand used to be a good source for grab rails, belaying pins and teak plugs.  It's been several years since I bought anything like that and cannot remember the guys name, let alone contact information.  Perhaps someone else has the details and can post them here.

    Ralph
  • December 06, 2013 9:25 AM
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    Reply # 1453158 on 1452704
    Deleted user
    Here is a great link for hand rails.

    But if you do use this link in your handrail build, please please! do a similar writeup like the one in the link for the WOA in small projects (I am sure Jay would help with the pictures and links) . Also Here are 3 additional tips
    1.) If you use hanger bolts you can build it without plugs (install them into the handrail while the new handrails are in place, from below) you will need a helper (or a rope) to bend it as you drill and screw in the hanger bolts in to the rail from inside the cabin. Starting at one end working toward the other.
    2.) a saber saw (can be called a jigsaw) works as well as the band saw
    3.) 6/4 is the perfect size for the hand  (on Mine I used some additional routing to make them look like the Pros make for $$$$$)

    for this project you need a drill  & hole saw (can be a hand drill), table saw, router & bits, and a saber saw and some teak:   now for the link.
    An Alberg link on how to make handrails

    Best of luck:
    Norm
    Last modified: December 06, 2013 9:57 AM | Deleted user
  • December 07, 2013 4:37 PM
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    Reply # 1453788 on 1452704
    Deleted user
    I bought a sample grab rail from WestMarine (whitehull brand?) and compared it to my originals, turns out to be very beefy and matches the original footprints and measurements.
    I put some Epifanes on the footprint as a test sample and it doesn't seem to darken the teak enough. 
    Should we be staining our new teak first before varnishing to get a richer color?
  • December 08, 2013 5:56 AM
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    Reply # 1453971 on 1452704
    Deleted user
    Carl,

    For new teak I use Watco Teak Oil, available at Home Depot, to bring the color in line with existing teak as necessary. Oil as needed until you are close to the desired color then let it soak in for a few days or even a week in direct sunlight, then a light sanding. The varnish will also darken the teak a little so don't overdo the oil and certain varnishes, such as Schooner Gold, will also darken the teak quite a bit. find that oiled teak will yield a much nicer finish than applying varnish to raw teak. It also helps mitigate the somewhat orange tint of Cetol which is what I use on Rhapsody's exterior brightwork.

    Werner
    Last modified: December 08, 2013 6:18 AM | Deleted user
  • December 08, 2013 9:29 AM
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    Reply # 1454036 on 1452704
    Deleted user
    Werner,
    Thanks for the help.
    That's the method I was assuming but I wanted to hear it from someone else before I jumped in head first as I wasn't certain.
    Only difference is that I'll be using 2 coats of Zar oil based stain "natural teak" under my Epifanes high gloss.
    I have a sample of it on my new washboards for my other sailboat (herreshoff 28) and it looks fantastic.
    FYI, it's recommended by Don Casey and others to wipe the stain with acetone to remove the oils on top of the wood before varnishing of course this takes place long after the stain has had time to penetrate and dry off.
    Cheers,
    Carl 
    Last modified: December 08, 2013 11:02 AM | Deleted user
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