Compainionway Hatch Removal Question.

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  • May 28, 2012 5:18 PM
    Message # 933298
    Deleted user
    Hello fellow Westsailors,

    I need to remove my companionway hatch beause a stainless slider needs adjusting.
    It's not staying in the teak track. I need to drill slots in the sliders for a tighter squeeze.
    Do I need to bend a phillips screwdriver or is there a tool to buy?
    Thanks,
    Carl
  • May 28, 2012 5:36 PM
    Reply # 933323 on 933298
    Deleted user

    Carl,

    I bought a bent screwdriver for that very reason years ago. It's bent 90 degrees on either end with a slotted head at one end and a phillips at the other about 4 inches long overall. Some time later I also found a small ratcheting screwdriver that looks like a socket driver but holds a screwdriver bit. Both items came from the neighborhood hardware store and not the big chains.

    Werner

  • May 28, 2012 8:15 PM
    Reply # 933870 on 933298
    Deleted user
    Werner,
    Thanks, there are alot of screws, I think I'll shop around for the ratchet option first.

    It sure is nice laying on my foredeck using my ipad under the stars while at my mooring.
    I sure do love these boats.
    Last modified: May 28, 2012 8:20 PM | Deleted user
  • May 29, 2012 5:25 AM
    Reply # 934364 on 933298
    Deleted user

    Carl,

    I suffer from iPad envy. It's on my list. My son uses the iPad for nav on his Columbia 50. He is wireless and connected to the MacBook below while the autopilot steers. In boom furling, electric winches; these kids are spoiled!

    Werner

    BTW This is what you're looking for. Handy thing to have on board. There is a small lever on the back side to change the direction of drive.

    Last modified: May 30, 2012 5:13 PM | Deleted user
  • June 11, 2012 12:26 PM
    Reply # 961459 on 933298
    Carl Schaefer wrote:Hello fellow Westsailors,

    I need to remove my companionway hatch beause a stainless slider needs adjusting.
    It's not staying in the teak track. I need to drill slots in the sliders for a tighter squeeze.
    Do I need to bend a phillips screwdriver or is there a tool to buy?
    Thanks,
    Carl

    Carl,

    I recently had to tackle the same problem. Sometimes it's difficult to tell what was original installation and what was botched by a previous owner. The slides on my companionway hatch were very loose as well, which made it almost impossible to open and close the hatch. The following photo shows how my sliders were made, with two short strips of 2" stainless plate as slides.


    Original mounting plates




    Is this how yours was done? If so, you're probably having the same problems I experienced. Having 2 short plates makes it extremely difficult to keep them fastened tightly. Using screws to attach them makes it even worse. And having only two screws on each section... worse yet. Even if they were to stay in place, a good douse of green water over the bulwarks would have run right under the hatch and into the cabin, passing between the two strips.

    The solution I used was to replace the two short strips (on each side) with one long strip, the entire length of the hatch (about 35" each, as I recall). I removed the two side pieces of teak to which they were fastened and replaced them with thicker pieces. I also added another piece on the opposing side of the fiberglass to increase the strength. Then, rather than using screws, I drilled and place 5 threaded inserts (on each side) that were threaded for 1/4" x 20 bolts. I inserted four nylon slides (cut from a cutting board) at each point that would come in contact with the main top track, IF they ever loosened up. The nylon slides do not come in contact with the trop track as long as the stainless slides are in place 

    The result was:

    1) A much stronger attachment
    2) Greatly reduced likelihood of coming loose
    3) Easier to remove/replace, if I need to
    3) No gap for water to get in during really nasty weather
    4) The hatch now slides like a knife through warm butter!
    5) Won't destroy the varnished teak if it does get loose (it won't)


    I forgot to take a photo of the track, once it was installed. But in the last photo you can see it laying in the background, behind where I am inserting the 1/4-20 threaded insert. (The 1/4" bolt and nut were only used to assure a straight entry into the wood.) If I take the hatch off again, I'll try to remember to get the photos I missed.


    Preparing the new mounts



    Nylon slides added (just in case)




    Reinforced mounting bases (with old slide)



    Refinishing the companionway teak




    1/4" - 20 threaded inserts with bolt/nut for driving in




    Driving in the 5 threaded inserts per side





    Last modified: June 11, 2012 3:13 PM | Anonymous member
  • June 14, 2012 3:02 AM
    Reply # 969997 on 933298
    Deleted user
    Jack,

    Thanks for your very helpfull reply.

    Carl
  • June 14, 2012 7:44 PM
    Reply # 971475 on 933298
    Werner,

    Was your hatch attached the same way mine was, with four short pieces of 1/16" x 2" stainless plates?
  • June 15, 2012 4:43 AM
    Reply # 973236 on 933298
    Deleted user

    Jack,

    Yes, and it still is attached in the same way. I've only had it off once to do some varnish work. As I recall the plates were somewhat loose and I replaced the screws with longer ones and no problems since. Looks like you're making good progress. Are the barbeques back on?

    Werner

  • June 16, 2012 3:50 AM
    Reply # 974093 on 933298
    Deleted user
    I have full length stainless pieces. They are tight to the hatch.
    My problem is that I need to remove one, drill slots in existing holes so that I can draw it inward for a tighter squeeze to stay in the teak groove. Easy fix.
  • June 17, 2012 8:11 AM
    Reply # 974822 on 933298
    I have found that with the two short slides, it is easy to remove the hatch by taking ONE of the screws out of each metal slide and spinning the whole thing.

    rich
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