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Removing a Perkins 4.108 from a W32

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  • February 21, 2012 12:04 PM
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    Message # 831669
    Anonymous member
    Although I have my engine running fine (after 5-1/2 years on the hard), I've decided to go ahead and pull it while I'm in the yard, just to clean, strip and repaint and to make sure I didn't miss anything major, simply because I couldn't see it.

    Has anyone photoed and documented the best practice for this procedure? The part that concerns me most is how to get the engine up and back to where the fork lift can bring it straight up, since the forward lift eye is about 3' forward of the cockpit well opening.

    Any other suggestions would be helpful, such as whether or not to first remove the tranny, etc.

    Thanks for any help.

    Jack Webb
  • February 21, 2012 12:29 PM
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    Reply # 831694 on 831669
    Anonymous
    Jack Webb wrote:Although I have my engine running fine (after 5-1/2 years on the hard), I've decided to go ahead and pull it while I'm in the yard, just to clean, strip and repaint and to make sure I didn't miss anything major, simply because I couldn't see it.

    Has anyone photoed and documented the best practice for this procedure? The part that concerns me most is how to get the engine up and back to where the fork lift can bring it straight up, since the forward lift eye is about 3' forward of the cockpit well opening.

    Any other suggestions would be helpful, such as whether or not to first remove the tranny, etc.

    Thanks for any help.

    Jack Webb

    Jack, 


    While this doesn't show the removal, it shows the dropping in, so just reverse the order in the post.  

    Use the boom to hoist the motor with a come along.  Use the main haylard to reinforce the boom at the point where you attach the come along.  Since the come along will angle towards the bow after passing down into the engine room you must protect the fiberglass lip of the engine room hatch.   To do this we taped a block of wood thicker than the lip was wide just above the lip and just let the wire rub on it.  It was no problem.  You can see it in the photos above. 

    Tate
  • February 21, 2012 12:34 PM
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    Reply # 831697 on 831669
    Anonymous
    As to your other question... I wouldn't pull the transmission off unless it was ABSOLUTELY required.  I think it should slip up through the hatch if you just angle it going out and in.  No problem there.  


  • February 21, 2012 2:53 PM
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    Reply # 831799 on 831669
    Anonymous member

    Jack, if you have a Borg Warner 71 series transmission, then it is difficult to lift the engine straight up as the overall length is more then the hatch opening.  The aft end of the engine has to be tilted up, and the best way is to use a second comealong on the boom attached to the transmission flange and lift it up through the opening before the main part of the Perkins is up to the underside of the cockpit well.  Attach this comealong well aft on the boom, and it will pull the engine back as well as up.

    Once the engine is up clear of the deck, it can be swung sideways and set on the deck alongside the cockpit.  Then the crane can easily pick up the engine and set it on the ground, or in a pickup. 
  • February 21, 2012 11:04 PM
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    Reply # 832198 on 831669
    Anonymous member
    Tate: Great photo essay! I'm sure this will prove to be quite helpful to me... thanks for sharing. You guys make it look really easy. Now all I have to do is find some red Perkins. 

    Bud: I have the Velvet Drive transmission. Any idea if it's short enough to come through straight? When I found the engine number (after a good bit of scraping), I discovered that my 4.108 is a 1987 model (in a 1975 boat). The previous owner, Christian D'Urso never mentioned this in the specs... I assume he didn't know it had ever been re-powered. The original name was Xapic, as you no doubt are aware, so presumably Rick Kennerly did the swap. I've sent him an email, but have received no reply. Do you have any record as to what might have been the original motor? I suspect it was not a 4.108, as it appears that the engine pan has been cut and modified to make the engine fit.

    My daughter and granddaughter came in this evening from Denver, so I probably won't get the engine out until next week. Hopefully, mine will go as smoothly as you guys did on Sundowner. Thanks for your help.

    Jack
  • February 22, 2012 10:42 AM
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    Reply # 832657 on 831669
    Anonymous member
    Your engine/transmission combination is too long to come straight out.  The first owners on your boat that I knew were the Donneley's, and they probably had the engine replaced.  I do not have sales records going back before 1990 on my computer, but I may have sold them the Perkins engine.  Send me a picture of the rear of the engine pan where the aft mounts are located, and I should be able to tell if it is one of the conversions I did.
  • February 25, 2012 5:54 AM
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    Reply # 835479 on 831669
    Anonymous member
    Bud,

    Attached is a photo of the rear engine mounts, per your request. Do you, by chance, have an outline of the best method for removing the engine, such as what all needs to be removed, and in what order?

    I'm somewhat concerned that I'm just asking for trouble in doing this, since the engine seems to be running fine. But since I intend to be out for a long time, I thought it would be good to check out the things I can't see:

    • Repaint areas that are badly rusted and can't be reached in place
    • Check the pan and other areas for leaks
    • Change gaskets, as needed
    • Replace engine mounts
    • Etc, etc.

    What is your opinion in this regard? Am I being responsibly proactive, or just asking for trouble? (Prevention is, as in other aspects of seamanship, better than cure.   -- Sir Robin Knox-Johnston)

    I would appreciate the thoughts of others who have faced the dilemma of prevention vs outlay, as it pertains to the decision to remove the engine for reasons stated above.  Thanks.

    Jack



    Last modified: February 25, 2012 7:07 AM | Anonymous member
  • March 03, 2012 9:04 AM
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    Reply # 843031 on 831669
    Anonymous
    How did it go Jack?  You can't just leave us all hanging! 
  • March 05, 2012 2:11 PM
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    Reply # 848450 on 831669
    Anonymous member
    Oops... sorry, Tate. I've been so busy that I haven't even been back to the site.

    I made a lift bar out of 2" x 2" x 24" x 1/4" angle iron that made it easier to get out of the boat. I attached the two ends to the lift eyes on the engine and attached the center of the lift bar to the forklift. This allowed me to apply all the lift to one point in the center, without causing undue force against the front of the well. It worked quite slick. I had it out in about 5 minutes or less. The time-consuming part was finding a way to block it without a proper stand.

    Once out, I removed the starter, alternator, hoses, etc, so get at the hidden parts. Then I cleaned and stripped it where need be... treated it with OSPHO, primed with zinc chromate, and painted it. (Please don't tell anyone, but I painted it with Old Ford Blue, as it's cheaper and easier to find.) It almost looks like a new engine! I still have some parts to order for the Bowman heat exchanger, etc. Other than that, it's ready to go back into the boat.

    Thanks for your suggestions, all.

    Jack






    Last modified: March 05, 2012 2:29 PM | Anonymous member
  • March 05, 2012 3:24 PM
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    Reply # 848554 on 831669
    Anonymous
    Awesome!  Man it feels good when you slay a dragon like that doesn't it?
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