My winter project is to build a new (improved) rudder for Neverland. After one good season with the old repaired rudder, water found it's way inside this spring after launching and activated some uncured foam causing the rudder to split open. In the past this happened over the winter when water trapped inside froze, expanded and split the rudder.

Split rudder last spring...and quick repair in the slings...                                               

 

My plan is to laminate a few pieces of 1/2" marine plywood together, same profile shape, but thinner and tapered to about 1/4", then covered with fiberglass. Instead of being 3 1/2" thick, it will be about 1 1/2" (pintles are 1 1/4" dia) where it meets the rear of the boat. I plan to use silicon bronze straps (1/4"x1") to attach rudder to bronze pintles, using the same fiberglass gudgeons.

Is there anyone out there that has built a new/redisigned rudder on a W32? Any advise from experience or photos of rudder modifications would be welcome.

Hi Gary, yes, will use two straps on each pintle pin, one above and below each gudgeon, so six sets of straps. Each pin has a pair of holes, exactly 2" apart, above and below each gudgeon, so a 2" strap wouldn't work on the old pins. I'm planning to use high silicon bronze (has no zinc) flat bar from Atlas Metals. If they had 2 1/2" flat bar, I would have gone for that. They seem to be the best or only source that I could find for high silicon bronze flat bar, which I think is also known as everdur, in that it doesn't have zinc in the formula. I'm assuming the pintle pins are of the same stuff, so no electrolysis worries.

You must have the older style/shaped rudder? Which you modified? Was it you that recently did the Dave King modifications?

According to Bud, the newer style rudder weighed about 70lbs dry.  I would guess the old style would be about the same assuming similar construction--fiberglass/foam core. The SS bracket and rudder cheeks assembly on mine wieghed about 28lbs.  My rudder also weighed about 200lbs when the foam core was waterlogged--difficult for two men two wrestle around. After I removed the waterlogged spongy foam I could lift the rudder myself.

I plan to make the new rudder a little wider (1 3/4") than the pintle pins (1 1/4") so I can recess the straps flush into the rudder.

 

 

I have a brand new rudder built with core cell, using air vacuum bagging technic. Foil, leadind and trailing edge and apature have been enhanced see pictures its during the process just after lamination.... the part for the pins have been modified from the original design.. I have two long stainless pins same diameter as original, and they need to be insert by the bottom of the rudder .. see picture it will help to understand. It may seem hard to insert but its very easy... 

Out of curiosity, anyone know when Westsail redesigned the rudder? Year or hull #? Was it a Crealock design change?

Seems I've seen photos of some boats with the "new" (square bottom) rudder, but not the glass gudgeons--a transition period?...or retrofited older boats? 

I suppose this question should be in Bud's column, but maybe he's watching and will chime in with some wisdom and advice.

Yes the rudder is the same tickness as my previous rudder except above the waterline.. my old rudder was a bit thinner at the topt and decided to keep the same tickness everywhere. My stainless pins have been insert before instalation of the rudder on the boat.. Of course if I want to remove the rudder I will need 2 feets below the rudder to remove the pin... Right now the pins are only insert in the tube.. and 5/8 screw can be screwed at the end on each pins ... I will eventually post of picture.. this is to help me to remove to pins eventually.. The tube that have been used is a G10 tube.... You can google it.... I still have 6 feet of stainless for the pins.. same diameter as original bronze pins.