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Refinishing Masthead Sheaves

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  • June 30, 2011 9:33 AM
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    Message # 635396
    Deleted user
    I've stripped all the hardware off the mast and boom prior to repainting and have a question about the masthead sheaves.   Mine have not been rigged for nearly 20 years and were immoblile.  I gently knocked the sheaves and side plates (all appear to be a polyphenol type of synthetic material) out of the head.  Other than being dirty, dusty and dry, they appear to be in okay shape.   Would it be wrong to gently sand them smooth with very fine sandpaper and polish them up?   Is there a lubricant I could/should use to enable them to rotate smoothly?  -Tom Koehl
  • June 30, 2011 10:24 AM
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    Reply # 635424 on 635396
    Deleted user
    Thomas Koehl wrote:I've stripped all the hardware off the mast and boom prior to repainting and have a question about the masthead sheaves.   Mine have not been rigged for nearly 20 years and were immoblile.  I gently knocked the sheaves and side plates (all appear to be a polyphenol type of synthetic material) out of the head.  Other than being dirty, dusty and dry, they appear to be in okay shape.   Would it be wrong to gently sand them smooth with very fine sandpaper and polish them up?   Is there a lubricant I could/should use to enable them to rotate smoothly?  -Tom Koehl
    I just finished mine (ALuminum sheaves However with a bronze bushing) I have used anhydrous lanolin and it seams to last 5 to 8 years +/- (it also helps with the assembly as it Kind of sticks together everything during assembly.)

    Not sure sanding composites is the best Idea (as you break out the fiber reinforcements) = not good  You may just want to wash them in water.

    I believe you would be better off sanding on the AL plates if you need the clearance, and the shafts if they need more clearance.


     
  • July 01, 2011 3:52 AM
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    Reply # 640420 on 635396
    Deleted user
    Norm, I get the point about sanding on the synthetics.   Other than the pins, both the rollers and the side plates are the same material.   I'll try the scrubbing and then sand out the head space to see how that goes.   I was going to repaint the mast/boom/spreaders, however after chemically stripping the boom I found it was nicely anodized and unless I find different with the mast, I think I'll just leave them natural.   The consensus in the yard is to put a good coat of automotive paste wax on them before reattaching the hardware.   It'll save me nearly $1000 which is important since I'm way over budget on the restoration anyway.   Any thoughts to the contrary?  -Tom  
  • July 01, 2011 8:07 AM
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    Reply # 640537 on 640420
    Deleted user
    Thomas Koehl wrote:Norm, I get the point about sanding on the synthetics.   Other than the pins, both the rollers and the side plates are the same material.   I'll try the scrubbing and then sand out the head space to see how that goes.   I was going to repaint the mast/boom/spreaders, however after chemically stripping the boom I found it was nicely anodized and unless I find different with the mast, I think I'll just leave them natural.   The consensus in the yard is to put a good coat of automotive paste wax on them before reattaching the hardware.   It'll save me nearly $1000 which is important since I'm way over budget on the restoration anyway.   Any thoughts to the contrary?  -Tom  

    Tom
    If the mast and  boom have the anodization in GOOD condition without nicks "do NOT sand it, as the anodization is only microns thick" then painting it would be easy (best choice to protect it from new nicks, just prime and paint) However if the mast and boom are bare aluminum or they have corrosion spots or bare AL showing through, then waxing it and leaving it, is allot less work. (for bare Aluminum you need to sand, etch and alodine = http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alodine1201.php " done under water and a real pain in the #$#")  

    Just my opinion but painting treated (after alodining or if anodized) AL is pretty easy+/-  The striping is the real pain in the @#$.

    as always look for yourself and add up the $$ and time, then make your own decision because you should wax it once a year if bare AL or you can dish out the $$ and time for the paint, which if done right has 10 to 20 year life but if not done right could be a big issue after only one year (paint or primer will not stay on untreated bare or oxidized Aluminum). Hope this helps with the options.
      
    Norm
  • July 02, 2011 5:19 AM
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    Reply # 641199 on 635396
    Deleted user
    Norm, I appreciate your advice.  The mast I've not yet stripped, but the boom was in pretty nice condition and is anodized.  Only two nicks to the underside.  The spreaders, however, are another story, as are the cast end caps of the boom.   Some corrosion was present, and some of the paint had chipped off.   My thought (at this point) is to leave the boom bare and waxed, and paint the caps and spreaders in an aluminum color.   I'll know more after I work on the mast.   -Tom
  • July 03, 2011 8:31 AM
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    Reply # 641546 on 635396
    Deleted user
    Norm, I ordered the alodine - the application sounds pretty straight forward, but as I was wandering around Lowes yesterday I looked at the new Rustoleum sprays.   One of the problems with the two-part paint finishes is that they can't be touched up.   Since the boom and mast are vulnerable to knocks and scrapes from blocks and rigging, not to mention when the mast is lowered for clearance, why not put on a "professional" spray finish from a can after priming with the alodine?   The finish can be touched up easily and it's a far less expensive paint.   There have been articles in the boating mags in the past year about guys who have painted their entire boat with such paints with good results (durability is admittedly much poorer).   It may be an interesting experiment.  -Tom
  • July 03, 2011 9:23 PM
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    Reply # 641851 on 641546
    Deleted user
    Thomas Koehl wrote:Norm, I ordered the alodine - the application sounds pretty straight forward, but as I was wandering around Lowes yesterday I looked at the new Rustoleum sprays.   One of the problems with the two-part paint finishes is that they can't be touched up.   Since the boom and mast are vulnerable to knocks and scrapes from blocks and rigging, not to mention when the mast is lowered for clearance, why not put on a "professional" spray finish from a can after priming with the alodine?   The finish can be touched up easily and it's a far less expensive paint.   There have been articles in the boating mags in the past year about guys who have painted their entire boat with such paints with good results (durability is admittedly much poorer).   It may be an interesting experiment.  -Tom

    Two answers and some thoughts

    One: if you get a nick (you get a nick) leave it, and don't worry, wax the area (Just like your car) and try to remember to rewax it next year or next haul out  = NO big deal your boat, as well as the other 800 + Westsails, have nicks in the paint, wood, gel coat etc. 

    Two: if you want to touch up LPU, and you did not go through the primer to the Al, then tape it off sctoch bright it, and touch it up, It is no big deal. But if you see Aluminum then just hit it with a bit of wax and write it off as aging of the antique. Two Part LPU can be touched up if you rough the surface,  My interlux perfection boot strip is atop an Awlgrip boot from 20 + years ago yes I did have to sand the nicks and paint /sand/paint/sand ....... and if you look close enough there are two spots that needed a bit more build,  but if you do not know where to look I don't think you can tell. I do expect it to last another 15years+/-.   (You do have to test for chem compatibility between paints, but if you use the same kind of paint = no problem just scuff and paint (brush, air, Q-tip?)!  

    Lastly: the better car paints are two part LPU's or alike.   Awlgrip puts a very large extra charge on there boat paints, it is good stuff (in the same league as the very best car paints) but allot of $$$$$$ In my opinion to much $$$$  

    Lowering  the mast for clearance?

    UMM  Well I have done this at the dock, prep for taking the mast off the boat without a crane (not that hard with 3 guys+).  Doing it for bridge clearance UUUUH I am thinking maybe not (the stick does stick out along way, and a good wake could = very bad words?)  Also the up and down with the mast = no nicks. take it on or off, climbing it, using winch handles;=+/- nicks, oh well.  

    Thomas:  You did just give me a great thought. If I do get nicks around the winches on the mast,  I am thinking of just cleaning it up by applying a vinyl  (like the westsail32 Vinyl) but a solid that would wrap the mast back to the track? could even do a fancy stripe thing?


    Last modified: July 03, 2011 9:27 PM | Deleted user
  • July 04, 2011 10:15 AM
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    Reply # 643645 on 635396
    Deleted user
    Norm, that's all good information, and very useful.  I'll have to lower the mast for the Erie Canal, but I'm told that there are facilities at each end to raise/lower masts at a nominal charge.   I hope I don't have to lower it on my own, but Bud assures me that it's doable and "easy" with some experience (scary as all get out the first time, I'm sure).   I think I'll experiment with a different paint on the spreaders.  If the mast strips cleanly and shows clean anodizing (fingers crossed) I'm going to go with bare metal.  I'll let you know how it turns out!  -Tom
  • July 05, 2011 3:39 AM
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    Reply # 644013 on 635396
    Deleted user

    Hi Tom,

    Sorry for the late weigh-in on this. I had Rhapsody's mast stripped and painted over 15 years ago and it still looks very good. The fellow that painted it is now the marina manager where I keep my slip and will probably remember what paint and procedures were used. If not, I think I have the invoice somewhere. I'll try to dig up the information for you. Any nicks and scratches are occasionally touched up with Krylon spray paint. The "almond" color is a perfect match for my mast.Hope to see you and Barb sometime this month.

    Werner
  • July 05, 2011 8:31 PM
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    Reply # 644748 on 635396
    Deleted user
    Werner, that would be some valuable information.  I'm headed back to Lake Erie tomorrow AM and will be there for a few days.   Give me a call when you are headed north.  -Tom
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