'Treating' teak with resin?

  • May 05, 2014 7:57 AM
    Message # 1548382
    In the 10 years I've owned my W32 I've stripped and varnished my caprails, rubrail, etc. at least 3-4 times.  Being under an awning my inboard teak is not subject to the tropical sun so it doesn't require as much maintenance.

    I recently removed my caprails to re-bed/re-caulk them.  In the process I 'treated' the underside with epoxy resin.  I'm thinking I might do the same with the top using West Systems Epoxy (for penetration) then finish with some good varnish for U/V protection.

    Has anyone tried this and if so, have you found any 'upside or 'downside' having done it?
  • May 05, 2014 3:43 PM
    Reply # 1549004 on 1548382
    Anonymous
    Mike I have no personal experience with this but I spoke to several people that had before we made the decision not to.  They say that eventually the resin WILL fail and when it does it makes the job of fixing it far more difficult.  Any time saved in not redoing varnish as often will be made up for in the times that you do redo it. 

    They also said that if a spot of varnish goes bad and you have to spot treat the varnish you'll have to sand out a huge area because the epoxy will show through. 

    I have no first hand experience, just passing on some advice given to us from some folks that did try it.
  • May 05, 2014 7:03 PM
    Reply # 1549080 on 1548382
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Mike:  I have made additional notes in the members FAQ pages on calking the caprails... please reread as the Life Calk let loose in about 7 years under my caprail on the stb side.  I used SIS 440  per Bud and am hoping for better results. 

    On the second section that I had to remove - I epoxied/glassed the deck / hull joint then used SIS 440 for additional sealent for the caprail screws. 

    I have also used epoxy only on the bottom of the caprail -- and if the epoxy is exposed to light - at all - then it just broke down.  I do use the epoxy (as a barrier and also with glass to strengthen) on the underside of the cap rail teak but not on the area that overhangs the bulworks.

     

    Last modified: May 05, 2014 7:05 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • May 05, 2014 10:07 PM
    Reply # 1549153 on 1548382
    Deleted user
    Epoxy is durable but sensitive to UV.  Therefore clear finishes are not the best as even with uv inhibitors some uv degrades the epoxy.  Painting the epoxy will work but varnish over epoxy will still require heavy maintenance.  The lowest maintenance solution would be epoxy then solid color 2 part paint over the epoxy but then you lose the wood to another painted surface.
  • May 06, 2014 5:50 AM
    Reply # 1549222 on 1549080
    Jay,

    I was done with leaky caprails.  I'd had it.  I already had to rebuild my entire galley because of it. It's prettier and my icebox is now re-insulated but Never Again.

    I too have had poor results with Life-Caulk (and 5200).  So after epoxying the bottom of my caprails I passed on using 'marine caulk' and used a commercial window caulking (Sikkaflex). I figure if it's good enough to weatherproof skyscraper windows it's good enough for me.

    I filled the entire hull/deck joint to the top, 'squeegeed' it to a flat surface about 1/8" above the hull then squished the caprail down on top so as to squeeze a bead out on both sides when it was screwed down. Then I faired the bead, adding more Sikkaflex as necessary.  I think I used about 5-6 tubes on each side from bowsprit to boomkin.  I didn't think to glass the hull/deck joint together (arrgh) but

    No. More. Leaks.

    And to everyone else, thanks.  Per the advice I think I'll pass on epoxying the top of the caprails. It was a suggestion someone made to 'end varnish maintenance' and I thought it had to be too good to be true otherwise everyone would be doing it.
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