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Order of Operations - Cap rail Cetol Remove, Caulk Re&Re?

  • July 28, 2012 10:12 AM
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    Message # 1024584
    Deleted user
    I am also dealing with Cetol, but in the removal process. My exterior teak was au natural for the first 30+ years before being covered with Cetol, so there are lots of grooves from the grain of the wood. I am working on taking off the layers of Cetol and going back to teak oil.

    I have to take the wood back down to a level surface to get all the Cetol off, and I am using a palm sander starting with 50 grit and finishing with a finer grit, so far with pretty good results. The polysulfide under the caprail needs replacing, especially at the lowest points of the curve. The question is, do I re-oil the teak before I apply the Life-Calk or after? I am digging out the old stuff today, and planning the next step. I am giving the area a good scrub with a nylon scour pad to prep the surface so the caullk adheres well, but I don't want to put the oil on only to find the caulk won't stick to it.

    As always, any suggestions are appreciated, 

    Stephen
  • July 28, 2012 10:34 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 1024594 on 1024584
    Anonymous member

    I would recommend masking off where you want to caulk, applying the caulk, and pulling the tape before treating the teak with any sealer.

    Check out Armada finish if it is available near you.  I have had excellent results with it, and so have a number of other owners.
  • July 28, 2012 6:45 PM
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    Reply # 1024786 on 1024584
    Deleted user

    I've tried teak oil au naturel with horrible results... mold, mold, mold, so have gone to Cetol after a thorough cleaning (with teak cleaner).  Results are a lot more satisfactory.  The mold issue may be the result of resting in fresh water versus salt so would interested to hear others' comments.

    Ralph
  • July 31, 2012 4:53 AM
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    Reply # 1026689 on 1024584
    Deleted user

    Ralph,

    I had the same issues with oil in the salt water / brackish environment. I've gone from Cetol to Honey Teak to teak oil and now back to Cetol. I did find that oiling the teak and then letting it soak and even out for a few days and giving it a light sanding before applying Cetol helps mitigate the slightly orange tint and gives the teak a more varnished appearance acting almost like a stain. My son is restoring his Columbia 50 and met Vicente Williams in his marina who gave him a lesson in teak treatment with Cetol. A link to his blog is below. I have not used the clear in the past but since it's time for a maintenance coat on Rhapsody's cap rails, I will follow this fella's reccommendation on using Cetol as a two part system.

    Werner

    http://varnishteak.blogspot.com/search/label/Cetol

     
  • August 02, 2012 2:21 PM
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    Reply # 1035058 on 1024584
    Anonymous member
    I don't know if I applied the Cetol I used on my caprails with the most perfect technique, but I did heatgun strip the teak of the previous finish and sand down to 220 grit. My Cetol job included the two coats of gloss on top of light (three coats,) and did not last more than a year. I have yet to redo the varnish on the caprail, but I did do an experiment with my front door (mahogany) year before last, only putting on three coats of Interlux Schooner. It still looks great, and my door gets direct sun most of the day, as it faces south.
  • August 02, 2012 5:45 PM
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    Reply # 1035182 on 1024584
    Deleted user
    We did not have good luck with Cetol, it lasted only only one summer in the Delta.  We then went back to Crystal by Dteco and it lasted two years in Mexico.  it's been our favorite but is to hard to get so now we are back to Epathanes.

    J&J
  • August 25, 2012 5:30 PM
    Quote
    Reply # 1056603 on 1024584
    Anonymous member
    Check our Signature Finishes "Honey Teak". At least if you'll be crusing S.  Another Westsailer "Salty Dog" told me if I don't use Honey Teak he'll beat me with an Oar. 

    He had it and left it go 3 years and said he should have recoated after 2. We recoat every year, scuff up and put on one coat and we're good to go.  Can put wet on wet to build and in two days you have all the varnish on you need for one year. Can see pics of it on our website; just look around:  http://svelysium.net/  and We've now had it on parts of the boat for about 7 years. Obviously places that get dinged up or sometimes joints need a little more work once per year to bring it back up to snuff. Practical Sailor years ago recommended this varnish.  Personally, IMHO, if you want to protect your teak and you don't use "Honey Teak" you deserve the extra work and aggravation. Just my two cents.

    ps The worst thing about the product is the activator does not last and shipping it to places like Panama can be a PITA!
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