Overheating MD17C

  • May 24, 2015 9:32 AM
    Message # 3354070

    Hi all. We have a Volvo Penta MD17C engine with overheating problems and we're stuck on the Sacramento River on our way to SF Bay. We suspect salt buildup in the water jacket maybe? Very little water coming out in exhaust. It seemed fine in the morning and decreased significantly at the time we stopped.  Wondering first if a vinegar or miriatic acid flush is worth a try to improve things enuf to continue, and if it's safe to try.  Engine survey 2 years ago said temps on the high side and that the heads would soon need to be removed and serviced. Trip up the river 1.5 years ago was fine, ran at 1300rpm with normal temps.  Very little use since then as we were on the river. Before that it was in ocean water most of it's life. Raw water cooling system.

    We noticed some higher temps on a little shakedown trip before heading down river and had a mechanic look at it. He used IR sensor and declared it was likely a bad sender, changed that out and got same gauge readings so he said probably gauge was off because temps were fine. We got our own IR gun for the trip. Temps  slowly got hotter and hotter all morning and we quit at 190. At that time we noticed that a siphon tube with a T that entered the cockpit drain was squirting water in there (and steaming)... Is that normal? Still see squirting this morning at cool temps (no steam, however).

    We had a new impeller that we then installed, but no change to flow of water out the exhaust after swap.  

    Any thought/suggestions? Also for towing or yards/mechanics in the area? We have a mechanic coming in the morning but I don't know if there's anything he can do or even if the head can even be pulled with boat at a dock. Older Westsail 32 hull #082, so cockpit floor not removable. Most of trip is upwind in narrow channel with currents, can't rely on sail.

    Sorry if I we don't respond to all suggestions--limited time and typing ability right now. Thanks!

    Andrea and Mike

  • May 24, 2015 8:12 PM
    Reply # 3354357 on 3354070
    Anonymous

    I have an MD-2B. I used Rydlyme from Apex Engineering. I took a clear water pump, a 5 gallon bucket, I bypassed the water pump with a piece of hose and removed the thermostat ( I assume you already checked that). I put 1/2 gallon of Rydlyme in the pucket and about two gallons of water. I pumped it into the water intake hose and put the hose that connects  to the cooling elbow into the bucket. Ran the pump for an hour, dumped the contents of the bucket, put in the other half gallon and more water in the bucket and ran it another hour. I got seven times more water out of the engine when I was finished. (Ran the engine 15 minutes with a bucket under the exhaust, that got me the before number, after the two hours and everything reconnected, bucket under the exhaust for 15 minutes got me the after number). Rydlyme is much less dangerous than muriatic acid. Protect you eyes, skin and lungs.

  • May 25, 2015 4:03 AM
    Reply # 3354804 on 3354070
    Deleted user

    Charles has a good suggestion there. I have the MD11C and run muriatic acid through the engine occasionally through a bypass hose attached to the sea water intake with a bronze T fitting. The reverse gear cooling jacket can also cause a problem if it is clogged. You can remove the hoses and drain plug and clean it out somewhat with a coat hanger. There is a small orifice located behind the thermostat that has a tendency to get clogged as well. If so, then the thermostat will not open. You might try running without the thermostat to get you out of the river although as I recall, some type of gasket will have to be fashioned to seal the housing properly without  the thermostat in place.

    Good luck

    Werner

    Last modified: May 25, 2015 4:36 AM | Deleted user
  • May 25, 2015 3:31 PM
    Reply # 3355588 on 3354070
    I had an MD17c on Tortuga originally and it overheated all the time.

    I found that the thermostat would stick and if I let it peak into overheating range it would stay there for a moment and then drop back down into safe range and keep doing that and that's the way it ran. 

    As the other posts suggest make sure your impeller is ok and also switch out the thermostat to make sure it's working. You can always test the thermostat in a pot of boiling water too.

    Cheers, Randy 

    W32 Tortuga 

  • May 25, 2015 6:28 PM
    Reply # 3355700 on 3354070
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    My original MD2B (raw water cooled) had a water passage in the transmission for cooling.  

    The plumbing was designed so the water was drawn through the transmission before the water pump and then pumped through the engine.  (If I recall correctly)  

    When I removed the water lines to the transmission. The passageways in the transmission were blocked 95%.   

    I soaked the transmission passage way with muratic acid (bad stuff) and also replumbed the water system so the water pump pushed the water though the transmission then to the engine.  That solved the overheating for me -- as did the Beta 35hp replacement a few years later. 

    Another way to test is to loosen the coolent hoses at each fitting one at a time until they leak and see where the flow is blocked.  (Better if you do this in the Delta with "fresh" water). 

    Do let us know how it turned out and welcome Westsail sailing on the SF bay! 

    Jay 

    Pygmalion W32

    Alameda Marina


      

    Last modified: May 25, 2015 6:32 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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