Hooking up mooring pendant

  • August 30, 2014 12:15 PM
    Message # 3089491
    Anonymous

    We spent the last few days on a mooring ball with our Westsail 32 for the first time. We tried a few mooring pendant setups, but we were never satisfied. I'm curious how and where other Westsail owners hook up the mooring pendant to the boat. Also, do you use a secondary line? If so, where and how do you attach it to your boat? Thanks in advance.

  • December 11, 2014 7:17 AM
    Reply # 3168292 on 3089491
    Deleted user

    One way to connect to the mooring is to use a snatch block on the tip of the bowsprit to keep the mooring line from chafing on the bobstay.  While I haven't spent more than a couple of nights on a mooring, I followed a tip from the Pardey's and used a vacant hole on the starboard flange of the bowsprit cap to suspend a snatch block.  When mooring or anchoring I can run the line through the block and then aft to the sampson post or cleat.  I used the matching vacant hole on the port flange to shackle a small block for the yankee downhaul.  Hope that gives you some ideas.  -Tom Koehl

  • December 12, 2014 4:51 AM
    Reply # 3169026 on 3089491

    If you will be moored for a long time, a second line is needed for redundancy.

    I use two lines and run them to the forward hawse pipes.  Balance the tension on the two.  I never have problems with the mooring lines touching the bobstay.

    If you still have problems with the bobstay, leave the backup line slack and the primary line running through the hawse pipe.  Instead of riding straight into the wind, you'll ride 30 degrees off the wind, swinging in the wind will be less, and the mooring line will never touch the bobstay.  I do the same with my snubber line when anchored.  In choppy seas at anchor, 30 degrees off the wind is more comfortable than zero degrees.

    if there is an eye on the pendant, do not run lines from port-to eye=to-starboard.  Run one line from port-to eye- back to port and ditto for the other side for the second line.  You don't want the lines sawing back and forth through the eye.

    Most secure, is to use a cow hitch on the eye, running both tails back up to the boat.  That assures zero chafing at the point of contact with the eye.

    Of course some mooring pendants have no eye on the end so you connect the pendant directly to the boat via the hawse pipe.  You still need a second line for backup.   Chafing is the number one cause of mooring failures so pay attention to how you connect that second line to the mooring.

    Tom, I'm sorry to disagree but a snatch block is not secure enough for heavy weather.


  • December 12, 2014 10:12 AM
    Reply # 3169254 on 3089491
    Deleted user

    We use a block attached to the cransiron. The blocks shackle also serves as a clevis pin for the jibstay, so make sure to use a wire tie. 

    During a mooring ----- We secure our oversize 1" double braid line to the mooring ball and run it up through the block (on the cransiron) and secure it to the sampson post. 

    During anchoring ----- We set the anchor then tie a rolling half hitch to the anchor rode and rig it to the very same block on the cransiron. This acts as a snubber and keeps us safe in severe conditions. 

    Both of theses methods I have used in calm conditions ( the mooring ball wont rub the hull at night if you snug it up a bit) and in sever conditions the rig always held up without any issues.

    I've been anchored a on a lee shore with winds over 40Mph and waves up to 5 feet almost breaking over the bow. The snubber worked great with very limited jerking from the chain. 

    Our bowsprit is a second hand hand me down made from 1 solid piece of doug fir. 

    Sometimes we run the 1" mooring line from the mooring ball trough the block on the bowsprit out past the bow whisker stays in through the hawse pipe and tied off on the sampson post.

    Last modified: December 12, 2014 10:14 AM | Deleted user
  • December 13, 2014 10:58 AM
    Reply # 3169786 on 3089491
    Deleted user

    Dick, I agree with your observation that the snatch block is inadequate in choppy seas.  It's just handy for a short anchoring or mooring.   I have only moored in sheltered coves or a river and for anything more serious, or longer than a single night, I'd opt for double lines through the hawse pipes.  When I crewed for Don Lacoste on HERON a few years back we used the mooring pendant through the stbd hawse and the port anchor rode (unshackled from the chain, of course) through the port hawse.  It created a nice bridle well clear of the bobstay but I think we lay bows-on.

    In Chesapeake Bay I made the error of anchoring for the night in a more exposed location in about 9-10 feet of water.  A severe storm rolled through VA that night and created long, deep swells that rolled down the bay.  It was like riding a bucking bronco for four hours and we actually bottomed a few times in the troughs.  We didn't drag, but it was an ugly night and if I had had the rode run through a snatch block back then I'm sure it would have caused damage.  - Tom 

  • December 13, 2014 3:47 PM
    Reply # 3169871 on 3089491
    Deleted user

    Well ill be dam! 

    I totally disagree with both of you fellers, respectfully!

    If Bud, myself, Brion Toss and the Pardys do it, recommend it, why would you two think its not a strong design?

  • December 18, 2014 1:52 PM
    Reply # 3172710 on 3089491
    Deleted user

    Michael, I'm always ready to learn.  The term "cransiron" is a new one for me.  It that the technical term for the bowsprit cap band with the flanges on all four sides for the stays and tangs?  Just studying the setup with the block fitted at the end of the bowsprit it struck me that in a heavy chop or long rollers, such as I experienced on Chesapeake Bay, the horsing of the boat would put a heavy strain on the block unless a lot of rode was deployed.  Thinking more about it, maybe it's more like balancing the boat motion when riding to a para-anchor, i.e. keeping the boat and the mooring ball on the same wave period.  I would suppose that when riding at anchor I could just deploy more like 10:1 to dampen any shock loads.  Or am I thinking right, or am I just totally full of crap?  -Tom

  • December 19, 2014 2:50 AM
    Reply # 3172938 on 3089491
    Deleted user

    Noun
    cranse iron (plural cranse irons)

    (sailing) a fitting on the end of a bowsprit of a sailing vessel

    Tom,

    I use a line with a rolling hitch to the anchor chain led through the hawse and then to the samson post. Simple, takes all the load off the bow sprit and keeps the chain from rubbing on the bobstay. 

    Last modified: December 19, 2014 3:02 AM | Deleted user
  • December 19, 2014 4:34 AM
    Reply # 3172986 on 3089491

    LOL. I remember that someone said that if you want to start a lively never-ending debate among sailors, just raise the topic of ground tackle.  It appears that he was right.

    Lost in the debate about where to attach is my point about riding at an angle off the wind. IMHO it is noticeably more comfortable.

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