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Bow-sprit build

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  • June 18, 2012 5:59 AM
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    Message # 975384
    Anonymous member

    Hello,

    As many of you know, I have the sunken W32 from the Chesapeake.  My question is related to how the bow-sprit is built.  Do I assemble the sprit and platform, and then varnish?  Or, do I varish each part and then assemble?  Should I use bedding compound when assembling?  How many coats of varnish?  Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    T.
  • June 18, 2012 7:00 AM
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    Reply # 975416 on 975384
    Anonymous
    Tyler, I would varnish the parts separately then assemble with dolphinite or polysulphide.
    5 coats of varnish minimum. 

    I used varnish on the spar itself and cetol on the platform..cetol only needs 3 coats to start with. Others just varnish the spar and leave the platform untreated which turns grey eventually. If I had to do it all again I might take that route :)
    Last modified: June 18, 2012 7:02 AM | Anonymous
  • June 18, 2012 8:18 AM
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    Reply # 975493 on 975384
    Deleted user
    When we had wood we varnished each separately and installed 
    with 5200.  Even though we used 5200 we never had trouble removing 
    them.

    We did away our wooden bow sprite/knights heads
    and went S.S.  We just had the bow sprite professionally 
    polished. No more worries about rot or varnish.  Not shown 
    are the plate forms which are now installed and varnished. The 
    large hole is for the wires to the Lofrans windless which is also
    now intalled.

     

    Last modified: June 18, 2012 8:41 AM | Deleted user
  • June 19, 2012 6:46 AM
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    Reply # 976641 on 975384
    Deleted user

    Tyler,

    I concur with Gary on the bowsprit re-build. I had to replace mine about 10 or 12 years ago finding dry rot where the threaded rod that attached the platforms penetrated the fir sprit. I used about 5 or 6 coats of two part varnish (Honey Teak) on the sprit and used, and continue to use, Cetol for the platforms before the assembly. I think it is especially important to use a bedding compound between the platforms and the sprit and any other attachment areas where water might penetrate the fir. I have recently switched to butyl tape as a bedding compound on other projects with great success. I wish it came in black instead of grey. I am glad to see the former “Widgeon” in good hands and soon to be sailing again.

    Werner
  • June 20, 2012 6:01 AM
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    Reply # 977834 on 975384
    Anonymous member

    Gary and Werner,

    Thanks for the input and kind words too.  I cannot figure this out totally alone (maybe, but it would take infinitely longer), but with the wealth of knowledge and input here on this site she (Widgeon) will be floating once again in 11 months time.  The goal is to get her sailing for next summer, and then finish out the inside the following year.  After that, updates to the rigging and improvements (much needed ones to boot). 

    I am decommissioning the name "Widgeon" too.  I have a new name, but I won't release it until it is proudly displayed on the hull this July/August.

    T.
  • June 27, 2012 7:58 PM
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    Reply # 985429 on 975384
    Anonymous member
    Werner,

    Here is a source for black butyl tape
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#butyl-rubber-tape/=i6125k

    Jeff
    Last modified: June 30, 2012 9:12 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • June 28, 2012 6:30 AM
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    Reply # 986408 on 975384
    Anonymous member
    Frankly, I've all but given up on polysulfide (etc.) caulking.  It just doesn't last and I've got enough to do without having to recaulk everything every 6-8 mos.

    I've converted to Butyl rubber tape. Along the way I've discovered not all butyl tape is the same.

    The more common black butyl 'window' tape seems to have a thicker, more firmer consistency.  More like 'putty in a strip'. Someone once offered me some of their butyl tape they purchased at an R/V store just a couple years ago and it was all but dried out (R/V butyl is designed for roofing and it has a different solvent content). 

    Here is the 'marine grade' tape I have/am using now. It is nice & soft (almost gooey) and works easily. It's not as cheap as the more common variety but I've seen the difference and it's clearly worth the extra cost:

    http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

    Here is the article that converted me describing the how & why of using Butyl rubber tape over conventional caulking (polysulfides, etc.).

    http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware


    Last modified: June 30, 2012 9:11 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • June 28, 2012 7:16 AM
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    Reply # 986439 on 975384
    Anonymous member

    I've read into the butyl tape on SBO.com.  Mainesail is a very intelligent and informative mariner.  I think I'll get tape for deck hardware re-bedding, but that is farther into the future of the project.  I'll use 4000 cauk on wood bedding.  Thanks for all the input.

    The project is coming along nicely I will add.  I filled 3 thru-hull holes; my fiberglassing skills are rising at a rapid rate. 

    T.
  • June 28, 2012 6:31 PM
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    Reply # 987119 on 975384
    Deleted user

    Jeff,

    Just spotted the above post. Many thanks for the link.

    Werner
  • November 13, 2012 1:38 PM
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    Reply # 1136603 on 975384
    Anonymous member

    One question to rehash out.  Should the sprit be varnished, or should it be painted?  What are the advantages and disadvantages of both?  I've seen varnished sprits, brown or white painted sprits, and Stainless shiney sprits.  SS sprits need not apply b/c mine is wooden, but I'm in the process of finishing mine and thought to ask one last time before I purchase materials.

    T.

    P.S. I got the Certificate of Documentation the other day.  "Nameless" is no longer Widgeon or Nameless. 
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