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Racor Relocation

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  • February 18, 2012 10:12 AM
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    Reply # 828861 on 827065
    Anonymous
    Man, those KTIs are pricey!  Wow, but they sure do look nice. 

    The racor dual setups run around 800-900 dollars.  The ones we bought from Griffin are 500 bucks and look like they're just a rebranded racor.  The filters are actually identical as Griffin makes the racor filters.  

    Another plus side of getting the turbine setup filters is that changing the fuel filter costs approx 10 bucks, instead of like 50+.  And changing them is very easy. 

    Jack, I know it might be extra money you don't want to spend, we certainly didn't want to sink that extra money into the filters when we were redoing everything, but now that they are there... I'd do it again.  Its clean, easy, and fool proof. 


  • February 19, 2012 12:23 PM
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    Reply # 829578 on 827065
    Anonymous member
    Gary: In retrospect, I may have failed to mention that I will be putting an inline shut-off valve just before each Racor. This should prevent flow-back into the tanks.

    Mike: I was not aware of the check valves, which should accomplish the same thing as the inline valves... but I will still use these. The hoses will all be new 5/16" marine-grade fuel hoses, so I don't anticipate leaks. I'm still in the air about adding an inline pump. I thought about mounting under the galley sink, but wasn't to crazy about the idea of having the fuel lines inside the cabin. Also, I am relocating my battery bank switches there (but under the steps) to center them between the two banks (I now have a set of AGMs under the dinette seat) and I don't want the fuel lines that close to the battery switches.

    Tate: I would dearly love to replace the filters with a state-of-the-art system. But my list is too long right now and I feel my existing dual Racors are up to the task.

    Thank you all for your input. All points are well take and worthy of possible reconsideration. The best decisions cannot be made without considering all the possibilities.

    Jack

  • February 19, 2012 5:43 PM
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    Reply # 829701 on 827065
    Anonymous
    Cool! Looks like your spot will work fine Jack
  • February 25, 2012 7:58 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 835520 on 827065
    Deleted user
      The electric fuel pump install. If you have a self-priming engine perhaps you don't need one but if you have a Perkins-- Do It! Trying to prime that engine is a real chore. It really (Really!) is a chore if you have to do it in lumpy seas off shore at night. Flip that switch and pressure up to make bubbles into tiny bubbles is the only way to fly in my book. You never think air will get into the system but somehow it manages to do just that- always at the worst possible time. I would not be without a electric fuel pump with a Perkins. Been there, done that. Got the scar on my forehead prize. Ken
  • February 25, 2012 9:44 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 835580 on 827065
    Anonymous member
    Thanks, Ken.

    1. At what point in the system would you install the pump? (I would assume between the Y-valve coming from the Racors and the engine's secondary filter) 
    2. Do you have any recommendations as to the brand, etc?
    3. Do you use your pump constantly, or only for priming (with a bypass under normal operating conditions)?

    Thanks again... the list does keep growing.

    Jack
  • February 25, 2012 11:13 AM
    Quote
    Reply # 835646 on 835580
    Anonymous
    Jack Webb wrote:Thanks, Ken.

    1. At what point in the system would you install the pump? (I would assume between the Y-valve coming from the Racors and the engine's secondary filter) 
    2. Do you have any recommendations as to the brand, etc?
    3. Do you use your pump constantly, or only for priming (with a bypass under normal operating conditions)?

    Thanks again... the list does keep growing.

    Jack

    I'm not Ken, but I'll add fuel to the fire. 

    1)  Def want the pump between the primary and secondary filters. 
    2)  Napa carries 50 dollar 12v fuel lift pumps that work great.  Just make sure it doesn't have an internal filter as this can be another place the system can clog. 
    3)  I'd wire it to the "ON" position on the ignition so that it runs constantly when the motor is running.  If you need to run it, you can just switch to on without going to start.  
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