I've just returned from Ladd's after a 7 days straight of boat work -- tired! but very happy with progress that Dave King and I have made. 

I've posted most of the images on my Picasa album   I'll have to do a lot of work to organize and sub title the images but since they are high rez - you should be able to zoom in and see the details.

The weather in the last week has been in the 50 - 60 with fog - thus slowing down the epoxy curing but at least it isn't 100 deg plus like Stockton can be in the summer!!

Working with Dave King has been great. I'm learning a lot new skills/information about working with foam/epoxy from Dave.  I plan on returning Friday afternoon thru Sunday for hopefully the final push.  Dave remains at the boat to wait out the storm...

Thanks to all those who dropped by on Saturday it was fun to talk and explain the process. 

I've been updating then FB group Westail nightly also.

Jay  

Jay,

Would you ask Dave if polyester resin can be used for the mod instead of epoxy. I've had great success with it and foam sheets while building a hard dodger for Rhapsody. I'd like to do the mod during the next haul in the spring.

Thanks,

Werner

Werner

The poly is as good as some 5min epoxy +/- maybe,  but not as good as the longer setting stuff.  Also the epoxy seams better at bonding to old glass, may be 2x the strength, but either is very very dependent on the surface (rough / clean / no oils)  (KEEP ALL!! SILICONE and any oils "like finger prints" AWAY FROM THE BONDING AREA!!!!!!!) 

The poly was made for cross linking in liq. form = will bond if liquid can surround and lock onto (into) the surface roughness when it forms a solid. This must be done in the absence of air = (edge issues;  fixed by PVA +/-) the epoxy does not have the air issue but the amine blush must be washed off before adding stuff on top. But for the Laminating cover layers, Polyester is just fine Vinylester is better. Just make sure to cover the last layer with PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) to get it to gel properly = (set).

Please note: the smooth surface can work for you, as it peels from a pane of glass pretty well for making flat fiberglass parts. Please still use wax just in case there is a small chip.

I used long set west sys. but for the clamping I hung (stood up, a 2x6 straight down from the the point of the stern)  Then using 1x2's or 1x4's horz. (1 each side) and clamping between the 2x6 and the hull with a pipe clamp (using the 1x2's  to kept my foam in place) on the hull for hours = no problems but I did it in 70+ weather.

Jay please check under the bottom of the rudder when it is mounted (you may want to fare this area some, so it is a little more tapered?

Also I see Dave faired it so there was a sharp flow trip area (square edges) I will be interested to see how well that works, I rounded mine which may produce more drag, but I needed the water to flow in more to the center of the prop ( 13"OD  1:1) which is so small it needs all the help it can get.

SO; will you guys be up there this weekend? I may be able to make it on Sat.

Norm

Ahoy Werner,

Saraband was the first W-32 I faired and I used Polyester exclusively.  It was all that was available in the location that I worked in.  I used Bondo brand "Bondo" to glue the foam in place.  It has now been 26 years and the fairing is still hanging in there.  I agree with Norm concerning the Epoxies.  They are superior so I recommend them, but they may not actually be necessary.  Good luck and keep us informed.

Dave 

Update on the project. 

Pygmalion is back in her slip after a 12 hour motor from Stocktion to Alameda Marina. 

Here is the Album with images and some comments. 

Good trip - great to see San Francisco Bay city lights. 

The new Oakland to SF Bay Bridge section.

Here is a Video of DLK installing the foam on Pygmalion... with information etc.