Original WS32 Standing Rigging Spec's

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  • February 11, 2014 7:08 AM
    Message # 1495704

    Hello everyone.  I am very close to having my project floating, and shortly after that I will stand the rig up for the first time since she sank.  I've never seen the rig standing, and I don't know or have confidence that the old stuff is right.  So,  I am hanging up all new rigging when I stand it up this spring.

    Does anyone have the original stay lengths for all stays above deck (bobstay, boomkin, sprit whiskers are easy as they are fixed and unmovable)?  I ask b/c picture this... the boat is floating for the first time and have not a clue if she is trimmed perfect, and one wants to stand the rig up per the original specifications.  Is there rake?  If so, how does one tell rake if the boat may not be trimmed.  Likewise, is the mast supposed to be plumb on her lines?  Again, how does one tell plumb if the boat is not perfectly trim.  So, my question lies in specified production stay lengths pin-to-pin (mast-to-chainplate, or sprit, or boomkin)? 

    If none of that is worth pursuing, in what way or order should I rig the stays?  I had thought of having all the upper connection points fabricated and fixed to the mast, stand up the mast, and start rigging.  I would start with the lower shrouds (I believe they are all the same length), then I would do the upper shrouds; which should be the same length.  At this point the mast is fixed laterally, but the fore and aft is not; which can have significant effects on length per degree out of proper order.  Maybe, with the lowers fixed (all the same length remember?) and then the uppers fixed (while trying to sight up the mast for straightness), the fore and aft will be easy as sighting more for straightness will take care of any issues/questions.  If this is correct, then the previous inquiry is of is a moot point. 

    My boat has the taller mast, encapsulated cast lead ballast/keel, wooden bowsprit and boomkin, and original sail plan.

     

    I'm open to any inquiries to help me get this boat rigged correctly, and sailing this spring.  Thanks for any and all assistance.

    Fair Winds,

    Tyler Bechel

    S/V Cecilia LaBelle

  • February 11, 2014 5:43 PM
    Reply # 1496225 on 1495704
    Tyler, I would suggest putting the mast back up with the old standing rigging. If it can be adjusted to meet your needs then fine, adjust and the measure and replace. 
    Your idea of getting the standing rigging with the tops made up will also work, but it will be expensive to have the crane stand by while you make it all up.
  • February 12, 2014 10:50 AM
    Reply # 1496670 on 1495704
    Anonymous
    I would second the suggestion about using the existing rigging as a guide for the new.  We redid our mast and did the stays one at a time to make sure everything was fitting right.  When we stood it up, I attached the running backs and forestay to get quick fore and aft support.  The sides are fast two if you do the uppers.  

    I would highly suggest you read Bud's rig tuning guide found here: 

    Just to see what some of this looks like, here is a video fo Dani and I putting our mast back up: 

    Good luck and let us know how it goes.  
  • February 12, 2014 6:53 PM
    Reply # 1497037 on 1495704
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Tate/Dani thanks for the great video -- love the music - you are on the home page...

    Jay

  • February 13, 2014 6:16 AM
    Reply # 1497246 on 1495704

    Gary & Tate,

    That is great and all, and I considered doing it that way too.  I read Bud's mast tuning you linked as well, and the greatest question is: how do I know the boat is level?  That seems very important to get the rake of 6" at boom level correct.  Obviously, then the rest falls into place.  Anything to add or some insight on knowing and having confidence that the boat is level?

    Thanks again,

    T.

  • February 13, 2014 9:11 AM
    Reply # 1497361 on 1495704
    Tyler, there should be a scribed waterline on the boat. You could use that if the boat is in the water or a transit if the boat is out of the water.

    If it was me I would wait till the boat is in the water then adjust things accordingly. I stressed over these things too. 
    Last modified: February 13, 2014 9:13 AM | Anonymous member
  • February 13, 2014 10:25 AM
    Reply # 1497429 on 1495704

    I plan on doing it in the water, but I've never seen her float so I do not know what to look for if it is wrong.  I redid the bottom to, so a scribed water line no longer exists.  Are there measurements to make from the stern to the water, and bow to the water (not including the boomkin or sprit)?  I know that is relative to how loaded it is too (mine is sparse b/c of the refit), so to ask the question better, is there a measurement of how many inches more the bow is off the waterline than the stern (if not equal that is)?

    Thanks,

    T.

  • February 13, 2014 11:04 AM
    Reply # 1497452 on 1497429
    Anonymous
    Tyler & Amy Bechel wrote:

    I plan on doing it in the water, but I've never seen her float so I do not know what to look for if it is wrong.  I redid the bottom to, so a scribed water line no longer exists.  Are there measurements to make from the stern to the water, and bow to the water (not including the boomkin or sprit)?  I know that is relative to how loaded it is too (mine is sparse b/c of the refit), so to ask the question better, is there a measurement of how many inches more the bow is off the waterline than the stern (if not equal that is)?

    Thanks,

    T.


    I would imagine its almost impossible to get a perfect measurement here because all the boats weigh different amounts in different places, etc.  Your boat might list a little to one side or it might be bow down or bow up.  There have been other long threads about how the factory messed with the ballast through the production run and it affected all this sort of stuff. 

    I spoke to some riggers on this.  The mast tuning guide is a "rough in" and you'll really have to fine tune it once you're sailing.  

    I would get the boat in the water and see if she is floating about level, if not try to use some ballast to balance her pretty well in a calm slip.  Then go about following the guide.  I doubt absolute perfection is required here as you'll probably make adjustments once you start actually sailing.  You're basically looking to have the mast straight up and down with the lower side stays tight and the fore/back stay tight.  


  • February 13, 2014 1:14 PM
    Reply # 1497536 on 1495704

    Ahoy Tyler,

    On hull # 211 the distance to the water from the top of the cap rail at the bow is 56 3/4".  At the stern it is 41 1/2".  A difference of 15 1/4".  My boat is exactly level and floating a bit high.

    My boat is the "Middle Generation" of W-32's.  The first generation with the totally removable cockpit, and the last generation with the flush lazarette hatch, may be different.

    Also:  You may consider raking your mast Less than 6".  Many W-32 owners have complained about weather helm.  Moving the mast head forward is one way to reduce weather helm.  I have moved my mast head forward about 4".

    Good luck

  • February 16, 2014 5:42 PM
    Reply # 1499348 on 1495704
    Deleted user
    Just got around to reading this thread, I was wondering how to do this myself. I'm not as close to rigging my boat yet, not till next summer. Only I don't have any old rigging as my boat has never seen water yet, well maybe a little peek at my pond when I open up my shed. Would anybody have a old set of rigging I could use to hold my mast up while I make up new rigging, I guess I would only need the lowers, and I will have new turnbuckles, just trying to cut shipping rates as I am far away from everybody. If anyone has any other ideas or thoughts let me know.
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